Brussels – a dining out bucket list
UPDATED 13TH APRIL 2019: I am dubbing Brussels the city of extremes, where one night over Christmas week I find myself queuing in freezing temperatures at Frit Flagey – a friture, commonly known to some of us as a chippie. Belgians swear they invented the fries not the French – double fried in beef fat, and served piping hot in a paper cone with dollops of mayo. And another day, I am lunching on a tram over a four-course, wine-paired feast – the Brussels Tram Experience [update: since closed]. In between, there’s plenty of fine, fun restaurants, quirky cafes and wine bars, plus gourmet shopping, fromageries and chocolatiers. So I asked my sister, a long-time resident who dines out every other night practically (even with new baby in tow) to pen her Brussels restaurant bucket list. So voila…here it is, interspersed with some FooDiva picks.
If you fancy heading out of Brussels to the coast, Carcasse, in the town of Koksijde, is heaven for carnivores, and well worth the one and a half hour drive (or train journey) – recently gaining its first Michelin star. Owned by a butcher, the focus is on different and unusual breeds of char-grilled beef. Some of the most sensational meat I have ever eaten.
FINE, FUN RESTAURANTS
- Viva M’Boma – a typically Belgian restaurant in an old butcher specialising in offal. I love the variety of meat and the very central location.
- La Villa In The Sky – this two-Michelin star restaurant is perched on the rooftop extension of one of Brussels’s tallest buildings. Stunning views of the city, beautiful restaurant extension and exquisite food (set menus) including reinventions of Belgian classics.
- Comptoir Des Galeries – I am always searching for decent places in the touristic centre of Brussels and mostly fail – but this spot is a gem. I love the Nordic interior and the food, once again a spin on traditional Belgian dishes. The wine and tapas bar is also great.
- Le Pigeon Noir – a rustic, chalet-style restaurant with good, hearty fare that won its first Michelin star last year. I am hoping that it does not go all minimalist on me.
- Brasserie Restaurant La Paix 1892 – a brasserie in a run-down Brussels suburb. Known for its excellent meat and classical presentation. Oh, did I mention it too has a Michelin star?
- L’Idiot Du Village – quirky, dimly lit restaurant in the Marolles district. Changing menu with food served on what could be your grandmother’s crockery. Delish.
- La Canne En Ville – great quality produce. I have never had a better chateaubriand and gratin dauphinoise. A converted butchery and quaint, family-run restaurant. Excellent service.
- Beaucoup Fish – a seafood-only restaurant with a Scandinavian, minimalistic design. Fish is always fresh and you can choose from the counter.
- Ergon and Strofilia – I know I am slightly biased but these two are great Greek restaurants in a non-kitsch environment.
- Villa Lorraine – the one Michelin star restaurant of choice for my birthday. A gorgeous traditional-style dining room interspersed with modern art. The seasonal cooking is innovative without sacrificing flavour.
- Senzanome – a one Michelin star family-run Italian restaurant that has been operational since 1991, but recently moved to a more central location on Place du Petit Sablon. Two tasting menus with a choice of either four or six courses are not set, giving the chef free reign to change the dishes. The cooking style is a slight twist on Italian classics with a focus on top notch ingredients. Service borders on formal and can be a little abrupt.
- San – Belgian-Korean chef Sang Hoon Degeimbre’s restaurant (of Michelin L’Air du Temps fame). All dishes are served in bowls (three, four or five courses) with the menu changing monthly. With very little meat, knives are not required making it easy to eat. Exquisite fare with a play of textures. Personal, knowledgeable service.
CASUAL EATERIES FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH, COFFEE, CAKE & DINNER
- Peck 47 – great place for a late breakfast or lunch – poached eggs cooked on point. Simplicity at its best. Peck 20 is its newly opened sister.
- Ba.ba Bagel Bakery – freshly baked in-house, the classic Reuben is THE bagel filling to order. You’ll thank me later.
- Fernand Obb – a teeny traditional Belgian deli known for its delicious croquettes – with either a shrimp or cheese filling. Order at the counter and grab a table in this cosy 1960’s style joint.
- Burger Republic – I love a good burger and spend most Saturdays trying out new burger joints. I have to say this spot boasts the best patties – cooked to perfection and simple. I adore their brioche buns and the casual, vintage feel of the cantine.
- Mi-to – short for Milano-Torino. A pizzeria for authentic Neapolitan pies opposite Parc Tenbosch which makes for a lovely pre or post lunch wander. Or if you’ve got kids, go for the play area.
- Au Savoy – a casual brasserie with tables spilling onto the pavement of one of Brussels’ finest squares – Place Georges Brugmann. Great choice for breakfast, including a fluffy circular omelette or for lunch/ dinner over filet Américain préparé, Belgian’s version of steak tartare.
- Old Boy – a small counter-style Asian restaurant with a compact ten-dish menu. Don’t leave without ordering the pillowy bao buns cooked in front of you.
- Forcado – Portuguese patisserie serving different flavoured pasteis de nata, the traditional Portuguese custard cream cakes.
- Creme Espresso Bar – on one of Brussels’ many cobbled streets sits a cosy Australian-inspired coffee bar with a decent selection of breakfast dishes too.
- Or Coffee Roastery – near the main square, Grand-Place, but, thankfully, away from the tourists. Surprisingly for a coffee shop, it also serves a white silver needle tea, rare to find in tea shops, let alone anywhere else.
WINE BARS
- Pepete & Ronron – I love the central location of this Spanish-inspired wine bar. Good selection of wines and tapas in a buzzing setting.
- Winery – rustic wine bar with excellent selection of cheese and charcuterie.
- Vini Divini – situated in a boutique hotel which used to be frequented by ladies of the night, but has had a revamp (clearly). Boudoir-like setting. Come here after work for a drink, an Italian-style aperitivo or even better stay for dinner.
- Champagnotheque – a shop dedicated to champagne tasting with many of the more unusual and biodynamic tipples.
FOOD SHOPPING
- Rob, The Gourmet’s Market – as the name suggests, a gourmet grocer – similar to Lafayette Gourmet.
- Fromageries – Julien Hazard who is also a cheese affineur; La Crémerie des Tongres; and Caseus – no website (Rue Vanderkindere. T; +32 2 3455530).
- Chocolatiers – Pierre Marcolini; Frederic Blondeel; Wittamer; Passion Chocolat; Laurent Gerbaud; and Van Dender.
- Here’s a thorough feature on typical Belgian dishes in Huffington Post.
FLIGHTS
Both Emirates and Etihad fly direct daily to and from Brussels International Airport. It’s a near-seven hour flight.
And if you can’t pop on a flight, here’s where to tuck into your Belgian food fix in the UAE:
- Café Belge – at Ritz-Carlton DIFC.
- Belgian Beer Café – numerous locations in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.
- Le Petit Belge – a few locations in Dubai.
Any more Brussels restaurants to add to this round-up? What’s your favourite Belgian dish or food?
Before I sign off, here’s a Belgian food blog I follow – Food & Wine Gazette (as an aside Ivan publishes a well-informed weekly round-up of global food and wine reads). Oh and I’ll leave you with some scenic i-phone snaps to prove I wasn’t just eating 😉
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
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