How does Asia de Cuba in Dubai compare to Abu Dhabi?
As a loyal patron of imported Latin-American restaurant concept Asia de Cuba in Abu Dhabi, I am excited to see how the Dubai counterpart fares at The Westin Mina Seyahi Beach Resort. It will take something special to beat the picturesque views and effortless charm of Abu Dhabi. Comparing the menus is the first hint that Dubai is not a carbon copy of the original venue, bringing a welcome sense of anticipation to our dinner reservation.
Arriving at Asia de Cuba, which, incidentally, has replaced China Grill, is satisfyingly smooth with designated parking or cab drop-off outside the entrance. The welcome is refreshingly understated and low-key. This is just what I need after too many restaurants that bombard us with ‘welcome teams’. Walking into the main dining area evokes feelings of awe at the décor. Asia de Cuba is split into two intriguing levels with a funky bar upstairs overlooking the spacious dining room. The interior is an impressive homage to Havana with painted waterfalls, leafy plants, and Cuban artwork and influences galore.
The atmosphere is on point with appropriate tunes filling the background but the hubbub of conversation and joviality is the main track. The tables fill quickly and by 8pm on a Wednesday night the dining room is almost full. The upstairs bar opens at 9pm which coincides with live music to ramp up the ambience further. I am usually the first to complain about intrusive music but I barely notice it here and conversation is as relaxed as it should be.
Service at Asia de Cuba is deliberate and charmingly executed. The waiting staff is male-dominated but with stylish uniforms that add to the relaxed Cuban vibes. Most importantly, the team knows the food. They must have eaten it. They must have enjoyed it. We order with the sharing concept in mind but order way too much. However, in a shock twist we are told to remove one dish from our order as we would be too full. What a refreshing change from the usual attempts at upselling and over-ordering.
I cannot remember the last time I dined without wine but it makes perfect sense at Asia de Cuba. The wine list is attractive but the cocktails even more so; we get through mojitos of differing flavours and I also try an interesting addition to the drinks menu. Honestly, I am cynical at the sound of the Pinyan margarita as it contains apricot brandy, strawberries and sake foam. How wrong am I? It looks and tastes superb. The water served is only imported and priced accordingly. Consumers should be given a choice with local water also on offer.
What about the food? First of all, it is not that Instagrammable. The dim light and rustic, simple style of the dishes does not make for perfect, pretty photographs; a topic that I have heard keenly contested on local radio, recently. Professional obligations aside, it matters not. The food tastes superb and the sharing concept enhances this (take note, La Petite Maison) as we are keen to mix and match to compare notes.
The snapper ceviche is cleverly layered as red onion and Thai chilli warm the mouth before coriander refreshes it ready for the next mouthful. The empanadas are replete with black beans and plantain; the pastry of similar good quality to the ‘Ropa Vieja’ spring rolls. These spring rolls have the potential to cause arguments over who gets the extra one from the pile of three. Richly flavoured shredded beef oozes out but the real stars are the sauces available for dipping. We have to wait for the final sharing plate but it is worth every second. Pork chicharrones (also available as chicken) are juicy squares of pork with crispy, crackling tops that are accentuated by a honey soy glaze. I am not being hyperbolic when I say that I might just order several plates of these, next time.
The Cuban BBQ section of the menu is an absolute must. El Lechon is a pork feast that is served table-side. On the plate, it is a lump of sticky coconut rice with a chunk of black beans, some mojo (pickle)-roasted pork, and fat slices of maduros (plantain), served alongside chimichurri. In the mouth, it is a harmony of vivid, Cuban flavours. The pork is kept moist by the cooking juices, whilst another large chunk of belly and crackling makes you remember how good the chicharrones are. Tasting each element alone is fine, but your fork must contain all of the parts to keep your taste buds happy. Should the plate look pretty? Could it? Maybe so, but I appreciate the honesty of the dish and the portion sizes. We just cannot finish the feast and it would be enough for three people, easily.
At this point, we are too full for desserts but eventually decide on Mexican doughnuts to share. They taste good but I would prefer these served hotter. The chilli chocolate sauce is reasonable, but the salted caramel sauce is excellent and a perfect addition to the doughnut. Again, simplicity in presentation, but this could be an opportunity to show a bit of flair and style to elevate the dining experience to the highest levels.
This brings me to my conclusion. The location is good but it cannot match the marvellous views of Abu Dhabi’s corniche. The service is excellent, as is the overall quality of the food. The price point is superb at AED195 per person without alcohol, with similar dishes between 20 and 40 per cent cheaper than Abu Dhabi. You will not find many price points better than that for a licensed restaurant in one of Dubai’s nicer hotels. Personally, I like to dine with a view which you might be able to do once the terrace opens after the summer. However, the décor is outstanding for an indoor restaurant and an air of authenticity radiates throughout the place. All this combined scores Asia de Cuba a high four out of five FooDiva knife rating.
Have you dined at Asia de Cuba in the UAE, or elsewhere? Which do you prefer?
Matt.
Who is Matt? A married man with an obsession for French wine and fine dining, he loves nothing more than trying new restaurants and dishes with his wife and friends. Travel plans are always made around food and he can remember what he was doing on any given day by recalling the meal that he ate. His favourite chefs are Michel Roux Jr. and Michael Bremner. You can follow him on Instagram @finediningmatt
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