Akiba Dori: can Japanese techniques elevate Neapolitan pizza?
After contributing to FooDiva’s UAE pizza round-up, Akiba Dori at Dubai Design District presents a great opportunity to apply my passion for ‘real’ pizza in a new restaurant review. For me, technical requirements aside, pizza should be simple but packed with flavour explosions as you hit layers of creamy cheese, tangy tomato and fragrant herbs. Akiba Dori promises that authentic Italian experience but with a Japanese twist. Can a Tokyo-Neapolitan hybrid concept work?
Although parking is available at D3, it is quite a walk, but heat aside, worth it if you haven’t been to this hip arty district before. Akiba Dori is tucked away in building 8 towards the north end of D3, and the modish interior matches the retro-but-modern vibe of the district itself. The street-style layout pairs nicely with the street food aspect of the menu. Attractive-looking bar to the left, bakery section to the right, DJ decks encased in neon to the rear, and in the background, a giant Japanese wood oven flickers away, adding to the luminescence of the restaurant.
A friendly welcome and we are seated – Akiba Dori does not take reservations – at tiny tables, some with wooden seating which is very street but my sore backside regrets sitting on them an hour or so later. Make sure you ask for the comfier-looking chairs on the side near the bar. The menu is straightforward and easy to read, with the choices attractive enough to make us unsure of what to order. The drinks are well-priced with beers as cheap as AED37 and a bottle of wine for AED99, but we opt for the more expensive Kirin Ichiban and a glass of Nero D’Avola. Pleasingly, local water is served and we are spared the usual annoyance at only being provided with expensive imports.
Food is served à la minute in homage to yet another sharing concept but this should work nicely for Japanese street food. A tempura mix of prawns and vegetables are first to arrive and the batter is noticeably light and crispy. The prawns are suitably juicy, but the vegetables could do with a touch of seasoning or citrus to bring these to life. The wagyu gyoza also lacks seasoning, but I think this was meant to be achieved by the addition of what looks like parmesan scattered beneath. I am beginning to worry that this is not going to be a good meal when our spicy salmon maki arrives. These bites of sushi are thoughtfully rolled, and are certainly helped by the spicy mayo-like sauce that is neatly slathered on top.
Now, for the reason we are here – the pizzas. Akiba Dori uses a much lighter dough than Neapolitan, and is proofed for 26 hours before baking at a higher temperature (500oC) for a shorter time (45-60 seconds) in the bespoke Japanese wood oven. I have to say that the dough of my Margherita is noticeably feather light with a fun, stretchy nature when pulled apart with my hands. You can roll the slices easily, which is essential once the tomato sauce has permeated the dough towards the centre. Most importantly, the San Marzano tomatoes deliver sweet notes around the creamy mozzarella and salty Parmesan, and with the occasional hit of basil, I am a happy diner. The charred crust and bitter hints of olive oil add to the overall harmony and textures of the pizza. My dining partner is equally happy with his Diavola, although my personal preference would be sans olives and maybe a touch more chilli to truly encapsulate the devilish, spicy nature of a Diavola. As far as pizza goes, Akiba Dori has got it right.
The desserts are also meant for sharing but nobody tells us, so we end up with a mountain of Hakata cheesecake and an even bigger dolce luna. The cheesecake is fairly standard Japanese baked crustless cheesecake and the dolce luna is a crescent-shaped, childish delight of baked dough, vanilla ice-cream and Nutella. Sharing one or the other would be enough for most people and I rarely, if ever, say this, but maybe even forego the desserts completely.
After eating three courses, I develop a familiar feeling and unfortunately it reminds me of my first brunch in the Middle East all those years ago. You see the depth of the buffet and get over-excited; eat some gyoza, devour some sushi, then something battered, but suddenly you are on pizza and carbs before gorging yourself on ice-cream and cakes. That is how I feel after a mish-mash of dishes, but the pizza is excellent enough to stand out above the rest of the menu.
Akiba Dori is not busy on a weeknight due to Ramadan, but the background music and unique character provide a decent atmosphere. The location is excellent and an ideal spot for such a cool eatery. There is plenty of competition at D3, but if Akiba Dori plays to its obvious pizza strengths, it should do well. We intend to return but will skip the street food and desserts; simply order some sushi, followed by a couple of pizzas and beers before enjoying a cosmopolitan stroll through the district. The price point of AED166 per person without alcohol is excellent value for the amount of food we order, and would be even more attractive if you shun the three courses. I wish we had just eaten pizza, but all things considered, a reasonable above average FooDiva rating of 3.5 knives is awarded.
Would you head to Akiba Dori for pizza alone or do you need the rest of the menu to match in quality?
Matt Broderick.
Who is guest reviewer Matt? A married man with an obsession for French wine and food, he loves nothing more than trying new restaurants and dishes with his wife and friends. Travel plans are always made around food and he can remember what he was doing on any given day by recalling the meal that he ate. His favourite chefs are Michel Roux Jr., Michael Bremner and Tom Kitchin. You can follow him on Instagram @finediningmatt
Thank you for your review and it is nice that you enjoyed the mix of Japanese food and Pizza!!!
I went to the place, walked in and immediately walked out as I get easily confused as to whether it is a Pizzeria or a Gyoza /Tempura/Udon bar.
The pizzas are very small and although I did not try any, the ones on the tables were anything but appetizing…….. and I also do not personally like my pizzas pre-sliced with burnt bits.
Pizzas are in eternal controversy as to what should be the dough and ingredients and oven type… etc
For the sake of it. my preferred Pizza are not sold in a Pizzeria but in Italian bakeries outside the main Italian cities available in the afternoon till early evening only and sold by the etto.
But hey. that’s a subjective and personal preference. In the mean time I have to submit to whatever is available with celestial promises of the thinnest/thickets/stretchest/lightest/crunchiest shoved down our throats.
Hi Jay,
Thanks for commenting and reading the review. I get what you mean about the mixed decor but it just about works in D3 – anywhere else it might be too confused but for me, I loved the originality and bravery of it. I do think there might be something in there for Akiba Dori if they were to expand on their obvious pizza strengths.
You’re absolutely right – pizzas will always get us arguing and that is what makes them such great food. For me, I just want explosion of natural flavour but I do love a crispy crust and a good Neapolitan. Your preferred pizza sounds perfect, too; not much better than hitting the ‘real’ towns and villages of the like of Italy and France and doing it their way.
Happy pizza-eating!
Matt