Hotel Cartagena: does a fictional story enhance the dining experience?
Hotel Cartagena is not a hotel, as I thought when the first email landed in my inbox a couple of months ago. But it is IN a hotel. A new Latino restaurant in Dubai has replaced short-lived Morah atop the JW Marriott Marquis’ second tower (just above sibling Weslodge). The name is based on a fictional character (yes another one) – Mrs Buendia – who inherited the fictional hotel. Anyway, as it’s all fiction, who cares? More importantly, let’s see how the dining experience fares.
I decide it’s pointless making a reservation for a weeknight over Ramadan, so we turn up at the door. Like with Morah, the entrance remains the same, i.e. you have to get out on the 68th floor where Weslodge sits, and pop into another lift for the journey to the 72nd floor and top level of two-storey Hotel Cartagena. The transformation from Morah’s drab décor is impressive with what looks like a homage to Hawaii complete with tropical foliage and mock birds in a cage (if you like that kind of thing). It looks busy but only because of some business council drinks event. Our hostess escorts us to a table, which turns out to be in the smoking area (the top level also houses the bar). Downstairs is reserved for non-smokers but because of the event, is closed, we are told. She swiftly shows us to another, more private alcove, with less chance of us inhaling any smoke. It’s only as we leave a few hours later that I detect some lingering smoke. I welcome the day the non-smoking ban goes live for all restaurants with bars in Dubai. Like with Morah, the wraparound views of Dubai are a key asset of this location. A waiter and a waitress are salsa-ing which adds a playful, atmospheric touch. Apparently, the dancing is a more regular occurrence outside Ramadan.
The one page Latin American sharing-style menu sealed with a ‘kiss’ from Mrs Buendia is neatly divided into starters of bites, empanadas, tacos, chicharones, maki, crudo and salads – with main courses of fish and seafood, plus poultry and meat – and sides. Now here’s a bug bearer that many Dubai restaurants are guilty of – the highlighted signature dishes are the priciest from each section. Clearly an upselling strategy, which only makes me avoid these plates, so am not convinced this approach is successful.
Our three starters arrive around the same time. I have a thing for the deep-fried goodness of chicharones having tried and loved them at Asia de Cuba. Crisp with none of the greasiness that can sometimes accompany fried foods. I opt for the chicken filling (no pork licence here) and with plenty of squeezed lime and hot chilli salsa, these are just as finger lickin’ good. We gobble them up like popcorn.
The ahi (yellowtail) tuna poke is misspelt as ‘lahi’ on the menu so has me confused for a moment. This appetiser arrives as a wonderful interactive tray with lettuce wraps and individual bowls of diced and spicy ponzu-marinated tuna, guacamole, pumpkin seeds and puffed rice. You spoon as much as you want of each ingredient into the lettuce wrap. A fun, innovative take on a traditional poke bowl.
Variations of duck confit salad abound in Dubai, but Hotel Cartagena’s is hands-down the best I have tasted here. Generous shavings of both succulent duck meat and crispy skin are mixed with plenty of juicy diced watermelon and pomelo. Flavour comes through with fragrant herbs and the chipotle hoisin dressing, with texture from the shaved Brazilian nuts and sesame seeds. A truly well executed and balanced dish.
Sadly, the same cannot be said for our main course – a lamb shank asado that does not fall of the bone and is tough despite the ‘slow-cooking’ process. I expect it’s not cooked for long enough. Even our waiter struggles to carve it at the table – a red flag in itself. The yuca (cassava) fries are in fact huge deep-fried diced cubes, and when dipped in the spicy salsa are incredibly moreish.
The dessert menu arrives as a card in a pink envelope with the phrase from Mrs Buendia, “Go on darling, you deserve it.”. Mr S agrees he does. We pick the more unusual option – a smoked vanilla cigar, which on arrival looks so much like the real deal, I am almost tempted to send it back. Dark Venezuelan chocolate (80%) encases vanilla ice cream with just the right level of smokiness so as not to overpower. On the other hand, the salted caramel is hardly noticeable so a tad more would help give this dessert a bit more of an edge. The ‘cigar’ sits in a crystal ashtray with black-coloured dark chocolate ‘ash’ – top marks for creativity.
I am recognised on arrival (much of the team is ex-Q’bara) so you have to take what is excellent service on the night with a pinch of salt. The hostess returns to check that we are indeed happy with our table. A tissue box is placed on the table to help us mop up the juices from the make-your-own lettuce wraps. The restaurant manager is attentive and chatty, eagerly explaining the concept. If developing a fictional story helps the team deliver an outstanding experience both operationally and through marketing, then so be it. Personally, I don’t mind reading about it online, which may, or may not entice me to visit, but am not that fussed about hearing an explanation over the course of a meal.
A price point of AED255 per person based on three courses each without alcohol is reasonable and affordable considering the literal and figurative high-end location. Just watch out for the pricier ‘signature’ dishes.
Hotel Cartagena has all the hallmarks for success – a strong identity (whether you want to know the fictional story or not), central location, atmospheric décor, slick service, value for money and flavoursome spicy food, bar the inexcusable lamb dish. And for that, it’s an above average 3.5 out of 5 FooDiva knifes. Had Mrs Buendia cooked the lamb correctly, she might have scored a 4 knife rating.
Would you enjoy hearing an explanation of a fictional story behind a restaurant’s concept, or are you not fussed? Could it enhance the dining experience for you?
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
I was there the day before you (having turned up on the wrong date for that networking event!) and the service was excellent for me too…. An exciting new addition to the Dubai dining scene…
Ha ha! Glad to hear the service was just as good 🙂