Is a table worth bagging at the new Hakkasan Dubai?
I tried three times over the last month to book a table at modern Cantonese restaurant import Hakkasan, which recently relocated from Jumeirah Emirates Towers to Atlantis The Palm Dubai. On all three occasions only 6.30pm or 10.30pm reservations were available on Thursdays. I settled for a 6.30pm Friday evening booking. After all, as you know, I do love early weekend dining. I did wonder if the restaurant was proactively holding back tables, but no, it’s been a busy start for Hakkasan’s new home. Beware – this particular Hakkasan outpost, which is now owned by Atlantis and operated by Mubadala, will move once again at the end of next year to the new Royal Atlantis, whose attitude to building restaurants appears to mimic Lego’s. Heston Blumenthal, José Andrés and Ariana Bundy will become new neighbours.
Hakkasan has replaced Yuan, and therefore retains its own dedicated entrance with valet parking service next to the Avenues. Even at 6.30pm the restaurant was buzzing, admittedly many with families seeking an early dinner. The crowd was a little touristy for my liking. A pleasant hostess showed us to our table next to a large family gathering, so I requested an empty table further along – however she had to return to reception to check. I appreciate there are technical reasons to avoid double booking that table should those guests walk in at the same time, but given we’re only talking a space of a couple of minutes, hostesses should have the authority to swop tables immediately – which is what transpired a few minutes later.
The dark and sultry oriental interior screams typical Hakkasan loud and clear, yet the many alcoves create a level of intimacy throughout the split-level location. The music, at times, was an issue, as it oscillated from loud to bearable dependent on the tune. I so wish restaurants would recognise that over dinner people like to chat so hearing each other might be handy.
The location may have changed, but the chef remains serving an identical menu with the crispy duck and pomelo salad dressed in a hoi sin sauce, and jasmine tea-smoked Wagyu beef ribs just as sensational, even though the presentation of the former to a platter has changed. These are pricey signature dishes at AED158 a pop, but, for me, no meal at Hakkasan, the original Michelin-starred Hanway Place London location included, is complete without them. It’s always amazed me, that whilst Hakkasan does serve dim sum, you won’t ever find char sui bao, those moreish squishy fluffy buns typically filled with barbequed pork, or chicken in Dubai’s case.
On to mains, I expected more robust flavours from a stir-fry tiger prawn with pineapple dish, likely because it skimped on the spicy dried shrimp sauce. On the other hand, the roasted chicken with succulent, tender meat and a gorgeous, crisped skin on a bed of spiced satay sauce was superbly executed. A good alternative to Peking duck, especially Hakkasan’s insanely expensive version with Beluga caviar. A huge side order of steamed gai lan (Chinese broccoli) in an oyster sauce boasted a wonderful crunchy texture and a slightly bitter flavour, as it should. Another mammoth portion was the edamame egg fried rice which was enough to feed four, easily.
I should flag up that I was recognised when the starters rocked up, and the manager sent over a few complimentary dishes, of which a foie gras crispy duck lettuce wrap and wok-seared spotted bass were triumphs and must-orders for another visit. We struggled to finish our original order, let alone the extra dishes leaving us with absolutely no room for desserts.
Service was well paced and knowledgeable, but perhaps a notch too high on attentiveness which I will put down to the recognition. Hakkasan is an expensive night out, with an AED360 bill per person based on three dishes each inclusive of all taxes and service – without alcohol. Yes, we opted for expensive starters, but our mains were on the cheaper end of the menu, so the bill can go up and down dependent on your choices. Interestingly, a quick calculation of the London menu puts Dubai on a par, or even less pricey, given in the UK a discretionary service charge is added to the bill. So the perception that Dubai restaurants are always more expensive than European counterparts goes out of the window in this case.
In comparison to the previous Jumeirah Emirates Towers location, expect a similar slick experience, however, the vibe at Atlantis is, naturally, a little more touristy even when we leave past 9pm, despite retaining their loyal Hakkasan clientele who find Atlantis closer, we are told. It’s just a busier restaurant now with three table seatings. I will most definitely return especially as, for me too, the Palm is nearer to my home, but at that price, it’s a special occasion treat that I will book well in advance. Third time lucky for me, I guess. Here’s to a 3.5 out of 5 FooDiva knife rating.
Are you an avid Hakkasan fan? Where’s your go-to Cantonese haunt?
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
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