How does Han Shi Fu compare to sibling Din Tai Fung?
Hailing from Singapore, I am always excited about a new Asian restaurant opening in Dubai – especially one owned by the same team behind Din Tai Fung, my go-to for xiao long baos (Chinese soup dumplings) and la mian (hand-pulled noodles). Note; a FooDiva guest review of Din Tai Fung differed to my experience. So when the Chinese Palace Group opened its new licensed restaurant concept, Han Shi Fu (which translates to Master Han) in the Aloft City Centre Deira, I was keen to visit.
Han Shi Fu is coined by its PR as “a young and trendy Asian fusion gastropub”. I am always skeptical about ‘fusion’ Asian cuisine as it typically alludes to a gimmick take on food that elevates the cost of the meal – a style over substance scenario. Only a handful of modern Asian concepts here in Dubai successfully manage to execute the innovation of a chef – which is such a shame.
My dining companion and I arrive on a weekend and are warmly greeted by two excited hostesses who escort us to our table. The restaurant is divided into two sections – one for families evident in the number of round tables that comfortably seat up to ten diners, to a cosier area with smaller square tables. Han Shi Fu like its sibling Din Tai Fung boasts an open kitchen. The restaurant is atmospheric in a ‘Crazy Rich Asians’ way with marble tables and quirky golden cutlery set against a backdrop of lush velvet red couches and dark polished wood. Walls are adorned with intricately painted Chinese scrolls and elaborate traditional plates, whilst the staff is dressed in typical Chinese cheongsams and qipaos. The tasteful interior is accompanied by a sleek, efficient and sound service team who are able to give good recommendations and menu descriptions.
I am overwhelmed by the mammoth menu spanning starters, mains (divided into ‘from the sea’, ‘from the farm’ and so on), rice, noodles, soups and dim sum. It does not just stop at Chinese cuisine either, but borrows inspiration from Japan and Spain by serving both udon and seafood paella. Additionally, there is also a section dedicated to steak, lamb chops and beef short ribs. Too confusing and ambitious.
The first starter of six colours soup dumplings showcases Han Shi Fu’s ‘innovative’ dumpling creations – XO sauce soup dumpling with dried scallops, shrimps and fried garlic; foie gras with minced chicken, truffle mushroom soup dumplings; curry crab roe with garlic, egg and butter; kimchi beef soup dumpling; and of course the classic chicken soup dumpling. The dish arrives in a basket and is very Instagrammable with each dumpling boasting a different colour. Unfortunately, the skin is dense and hard with no memorable flavours. The use of premium ingredients is dull making me question – is there really foie gras inside, for instance? In our second starter, a Szechuan spicy wonton, the chicken filling makes the wonton heavier than it should be – compared to the Szechuan prawn wontons at Din Tai Fung which are bouncier. Nonetheless, I enjoy the tangy and punchy Szechuan spices, with a silky, smooth wonton skin.
Our Peking duck main portion is petite and is served with sliced cucumbers, spring onions, chu hou sauce and swan-shaped bao buns – another gimmick technique by Han Shi Fu, which fails. The buns are hard and dense instead of soft and steaming. Typically, a bao is treated as an accompaniment, which is why it’s simply made of flour, water, yeast and sugar so as to not overpower the flavours of the protein. Unfortunately, Han Shi Fu’s bao does exactly the opposite, diluting the duck’s flavour. The duck is far from crispy, which is what Peking duck is famous for. Fortunately, our second main course, a signature Taiwanese beef noodle soup packs a savoury umami punch, whilst the al dente noodles mingle with generous chunks of beef, tendon and bok choy. Overall, a great dish.
The green velvet cake for dessert is essentially a deconstructed green tea cake topped with green tea crumble, pomegranate seeds and candy. Whilst the dish itself is very pretty, the green tea cake covered in a mountain of green tea crumble is dry. Oddly, the cream cheese frosting, which contrasts with the coarse texture of the crumble and bitterness of the green tea, is served separately on the side. The milk tea ice cream with boba bubbles is constructed and executed much better, but nothing to rave about.
Primed as an Asian fusion gastropub that “transforms classic Chinese cooking into an art-form”, Han Shi Fu’s dishes overall require more thoughtful execution for substance to triumph alongside style. I can understand the owners wanting to create a different concept to Din Tai Fung, but they must embrace the fundamentals of cooking before considering style. On a positive note, the very affordable AED156 per head price point (without alcohol), attractive interior and efficient service allow me to give Han Shi Fu an average 3 out of 5 FooDiva knife rating.
Are you a purist or do you welcome creativity in Chinese cuisine?
Jovel.
Who is FooDiva’s guest reviewer? Jovel has lived in some of the world’s most promiment culinary destinations including Paris, Hong Kong, Singapore, Bangkok and Switzerland working as a marketing and PR professional in the F&B industry. She is currently eating her way through the Middle East and Europe in search of the best local haunts.
Relative to what available on a global level, I would agree with this review. I’ve had better in NYC and San Francisco. But as a long time resident of Dubai who knows what it was like in years past, I’m thankful we even have HSF and DTF. So relative to what’s available in Dubai, I’d give HSF a 4.5. BTW, their kung pao chicken is excellent.