Where to eat in Tbilisi, Georgia

The start of a Georgian ‘supra’ feast at Lagazi Winery

I must be the last person in Dubai to visit Tbilisi – Georgia’s capital. For the last few years, foodie friends and restaurant industry folk have returned raving about fragrant food and an 8,000 year old wine culture. I then ate at Modi, Dubai’s first licensed restaurant dedicated to cuisine from this country in the Caucasus, and I was hooked enough to book a Christmas break. A three hour flight with FlyDubai and zero time difference is also a huge incentive.

Georgian fare uses native produce truly exemplifying a farm to fork ethos. Spices and herbs like marigold flower petals and tarragon, alongside fruits of pomegranate and sour plum are used prolifically with intriguing combinations that make for aromatic flavour profiles. The food focuses on classic comfort dishes served family style as a ‘supra’ feast – far removed from haute cuisine.

The quality of Georgian wines varies hugely with natural, organic and biodynamic tipples at the fore. I am pleased to see the latter since I discovered an intolerance to brewer’s yeast. However, controversially perhaps, I would not sing the praises of Georgian wines as highly as I expected, but more on vino later. Dining out is ridiculously cheap in comparison to mainstream European cities, not just Dubai – it even beats affordable Budapest in the price stakes.

So here are my dining recommendations for Tbilisi, based on tried and tasted restaurants, as well as a whole host of other tips that cropped up in my research and were recommended on social media. In alphabetical order, voila 🙂

TRIED AND TASTED RESTAURANTS

• Café Stamba: the latest hotspot to open in Tbilisi is located in new boutique hotel Stamba. This all-day urban diner with Georgian and broader European dishes also boasts an Asian concept, a chocolaterie, roastery and a cocktail bar. Absolutely rammed for lunch and dinner. One of the most comprehensive and enticing breakfast menus I have come across.
• Barbarestan: for dining in ‘grandma’s’ house. This restaurant’s dishes are adapted from an 1874 Georgian cookbook, the first to be written by a woman. Pop downstairs for a peek into the wine cellar, where you can also buy wines to take home.
• Culinarium Khasheria: helmed by Georgian TV chef, Tekuna Gachechiladze, this restaurant opposite the sulphur baths (be warned you will catch a whiff on approach) topped my Tbilisi dining wish list, so I booked a late lunch on Christmas Day, but in reality it disappointed. My impressions were not helped by a dish of under-cooked chicken, so pink, the waiter was horrified. However, the issue was well handled from a customer service perspective.

• Ezo: we venture here as part of a Culinary Backstreets food tour, where our Georgian guide happened to be the owner of the restaurant. Essentially a farm to table concept of Georgian soul food.
• Meama: a recent opening in Tbilisi’s old town high up a steep cobbled street hill. Flat shoes are mandatory. A gorgeous three-storey restaurant converted from a Georgian house. Tamada Winery, one of Georgia’s better wineries organised a wine tasting dinner here.
• Zakhar Zakharich: a Tbilisi institution for nothing but khinkhali, fist-size pleated dumplings filled with an assortment of beef, lamb and mushrooms. There’s an art to eating these. Grasp the pleat with your fingers (mind you don’t burn) and bite into the dumpling, making sure the broth drips into your mouth.

WINE BARS

• G.Vino: we love this all-natural wine bar in the old town so much, we return twice. On our first visit, the sun is shining and we even manage to sit and sip al fresco. Friendly, experienced service. Wines by the glass aside, the Adjarian canoe-shaped khachapuri topped with three molten local cheeses from across the country, runny egg and butter that you scramble together is insanely delicious. Endless variations of khachapuri breads abound with different pastry, cheeses, and with or without egg – you will discover a new delight every day.
• Ghvino Underground: Georgia’s first wine bar operated by traditional qvevri wine bottlers. Like the qvevri clay vessels, Ghvino is an underground spot for serious wine buffs who want to taste and perhaps enjoy a light bite to eat.

FOOD SHOPPING

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  Where the wrap itself is cheese – filled with Naduri cottage cheese and tarragon at Tbilisi’s main food market

  Food markets: the largest is Dezerterebi Bazar, partly housed in a converted train shed. Here you can find churchkhela sweets (knobbly sausage-shaped dried fruit filled with walnuts), fruit ‘leather’, honey, cheese, pickles, herbs and spices. I brought back a sea salt and spice mix – wonderful sprinkled over olive-oil fried eggs or on roasted veggies.

• Aristaeus – The Georgian Basket: you can find all of the above ingredients, alongside condiments of sour plum and tomato preserves in a more sophisticated deli setting. Next door is Vinotheca wine shop for a wide selection of natural wines.
• Underground bakeries: you will see gazillions of these scattered across town. Just make sure to look down when you are walking to spot many a baker kneading khachapuri breads.

OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS FROM MY RESEARCH

• Azarphesha: a restaurant helmed by chef Keto, a Kakhetian chef married to John Wurdeman of Pheasant’s Tears (more on that later). A creative spin on classic Georgian dishes.
• Poliphonia: by the same owner as Azarphesha serving traditional dishes by home cooks.
• Shavi Lomi: another TV chef-driven restaurant by Meriko Gubeladze.

SOCIAL MEDIA FOLLOWER RECOMMENDATIONS

• Bina 37: home-made Georgian dishes.
• Code de Vino: a charming wine bar.
• Kakhelebi: simple Georgian food.
• Keto and Kote: a hidden gem of a restaurant with a view.
• Lolita: a casual bite opposite and operated by Rooms Hotel.
• Old City Wall: traditional Georgian fare.
• Fabrika: an ex-Soviet sewing factory converted into an urban complex of cafes and shops.

WHERE TO STAY

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  A bookshelf that lines one half of the wall in Stamba’s guest rooms

  Stamba boutique hotel is the highlight of our trip. Truly one of the best boutique hotels I have ever stayed in. The newer sibling to Rooms hotel which sits next door, Stamba, which opened last year, is a conversion from an ex-Soviet printing press and houses over 80,000 books, with bookshelves lining the walls of every guest room. Exceptional service. Book directly through Design Hotels and you’re in for a room upgrade with a glorious copper bath centrepiece.

OUTSIDE TBILISI

• If you’re heading outside Tbilisi and are in need of some inspiration, we booked a bespoke day trip to the Kakheti wine region with Living Roots. This includes a visit to Lagazi wines to understand Georgia’s 8,000 year old wine heritage using underground ‘qvevri’ – large earthenware vessels for fermentation and ageing. Grapes are crushed, then fermented with their skin on for several months in these qvevri (some are known as amber or even orange wines). Along with a wonderful ‘supra’ feast at the wine maker’s home, we also dine deliciously at Pheasant’s Tears, a winery and restaurant in the picturesque mountain town of Sighnaghi. Just a note here on Georgian wines in general: there’s a reason some of the greatest wines in this world from some of the most recognised wine regions combine technology with careful winemaking. Georgian wines, in my opinion, lack body, have a short finish and are too tart for my liking.

REFERENCES

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  Postcard-pretty Tbilisi – the view across Mtkvari River

  My Custard Pie: Dubai-based Sally Prosser has travelled to Georgia a number of times and her blog posts were one of the first to draw my attention to Georgia.

• Tasting Georgia by Carla Capalbo: an enriching coffee table book where Carla documents the country’s food and wine culture beautifully, along with heaps of restaurant, dining and wine recommendations – plus recipes of course.
• If podcasts are your thing: A Taste of the Past discussing Georgia’s culinary history.
• Modi: a fantastic traditional licensed Georgian restaurant in Dubai. I ate here before visiting Georgia and was super impressed. Now having returned, I would rate the food on a par as in Georgia.
• Boca: Dubai’s most comprehensive selection of natural, organic and biodynamic wines including some Georgian tipples and Tamada’s wines that I tried in Georgia. Also available at MMI.

Any more restaurant tips for Georgia?

A bientôt.

FooDiva. x

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