Chuan: a case for Chinese restaurants
Oh the irony. I am frequenting Chinese restaurants more than ever. And going by how quiet these establishments are in Dubai, I am the anomaly. The threat of coronavirus has caused such discrimination amongst the Chinese restaurant sector both here and globally – something that truly saddens me. So please go support your favourite Chinese right now – or give a newbie a go.
On that latter note, Chuan, the licensed sibling to popular Long Teng in Business Bay, has recently docked on our Dubai shores. Practically on water at The Pointe’s western tip. Just to confuse matters that’s on Palm Jumeirah’s eastern trunk. Conveniently, the name ‘Chuan’ symbolises water – and hence the menu’s seafood focus. Having said that, the restaurant prides itself on traditional Peking duck that must be ordered upon reservation. In a clever touch, a window into the kitchen is located at the valet parking entrance, so, on arrival, guests can spot the speared and gleaming duck roasting away.
Let me forewarn you. Chuan is prohibitively expensive, like Ena also on The Pointe. After discussion with the team (I am, sadly, recognised on arrival yet insist on paying the bill) – they are highly conscious of this issue and assure me, a menu revamp is on the cards. In the meantime, allow me to show you how to order and eat well on the ‘cheap’. Well cheap-er. Sort of.
For two people, order a couple of dishes off the dedicated dim sum menu, which, oddly, is not online – plus a starter. These portion sizes are generous. Followed by a main course with some fried rice and veg. That will fill you up a-plenty. I only order dessert because I have to try it. At all costs (literally), avoid the extortionate ‘chef recommendations’. Based on eight dishes with the sides and even two desserts, expect to pay upwards of AED350 per person without booze. In a strange strategy, many of the main course dishes boast two prices – the first for a single teeny portion – and the second for a larger two to three person sharing dish – but that’s not self-explanatory. I have to ask.
Chuan’s prettily presented dim sum plates are exquisite morsels of deliciousness and a highlight of our meal. The swan-shaped beef dim sum may look like a gimmick, but the fluffy feather-light pastry showcases some remarkable culinary skills. Deep-fried and stuffed with diced beef, the rice flour ‘neck’ is also edible.
The steamed cheung feung rice noodle rolls wrap around deep-fried rice that encases shrimps. Not only eye-catching, the tangy fermented flavour from the red kojic rice makes these dim sum morsels addictive.
I learn something knew. Hairtail is a fish, and when deep-fried like it is at Chuan, the texture resembles shredded ‘kataifi’ with the distinct umami flavour of an anchovy-like fish. Dipped in black vinegar, these oval-shaped rolls, which, incidentally, can easily fall in the dim sum category, have a delicate tartness.
The classic Sichuan dish of Kung Pao chicken is offered at Chuan with shrimps. Plump and served with cashews in a sweet chilli sauce that is too cloying. Less of the sauce would allow the flavours to shine. A generous portion of seafood fried rice is presented on a plate, making it tricky for serving – a bowl is more appropriate. Stir-fry vegetables are al dente and well seasoned.
We have no room for desserts but order the baked egg tarts for their resemblance in the menu pic to Portuguese pasteis de nata. We are told to expect a 15 to 20 minute wait. They arrive piping hot with pastry that is super flaky and buttery, but much lighter than Lisbon’s version. A complimentary dessert of deep-fried camel milk ‘doughnuts’ is offered. I take one teeny bite, however I can’t stomach the salty dairy-rich flavour.
The menus are overwhelmingly mammoth with traditional Cantonese and Sichuan dishes, combined with a sprinkling of Chinese-European fusion plates – and it’s the latter where the price rockets. Chuan would do well to re-engineer the menu focusing on less dishes with more affordable ingredients – in particular as The Pointe is very much perceived as a casual destination.
The pristine, elegant décor across two-storeys is far from casual though, unless you eat al fresco, like we do, with spectacular views of Atlantis. Atmosphere is lacking, mainly because we are only one of three tables on an early Saturday evening. Service is on point with well-versed staff, however I am recognised so take that with a pinch of salt.
Chuan’s food, overall, is of a good standard showcasing some excellent technique – however, the cost prohibitive price point makes dining here a special occasion treat. Either follow my ordering advice or wait until the menu revamp. In the meantime, here’s to a 3 out of 5 FooDiva knife rating.
Has this latest ‘epidemic’ put you off your sweet and sour chicken?
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
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