Where to eat in Sri Lanka: a FooDiva culinary travel guide
I was asked on Instagram for the name of the tour guide who organised my recent trip to Sri Lanka. That’s me. I always do my own research through guide books, online, and most importantly, word-of-mouth recommendations, building my own itineraries. That takes time, but I love the process. And sometimes, can be more rewarding than the trip itself! Thankfully, for Sri Lanka, that wasn’t the case.
My trip over the festive season marked my fourth visit to the island – one of the few countries in the world that I have returned to so frequently. This time, to guarantee complete R&R, we remained in one destination on the south coast, reflected in the majority of the restaurant recommendations here. Sadly, the pandemic has forced quite a few restaurants to close, particularly in Galle Fort. On the upside, those that have survived, are busier than ever, with advance restaurant reservations a pre-requisite. BYO is prolific with some places not even charging corkage. The duty free entry allowance is two litres of wine and 1.5 litres of spirits. Otherwise you’ll find plenty of booze shops scattered across the country. Sri Lanka is cheap as chips (in comparison to pricey Dubai), whether that’s food, drink, car drives or shopping.
So here are my tried and tasted recommendations – with several more by multi-talented Emma Riedel who, along with her husband, own the gorgeous boutique hotel I stayed in, Arabella on Boossa. She’s also a Dubai resident, designer and event organiser. I first visited this hotel for lunch with Michelle Karam of Travel with TJD shortly after opening, and the food had me hooked, as did the design. Who else picks hotels based on their food?
As with all my holidays, I pay my own way, hotels and restaurants included. Scroll to the end for some travel housekeeping tips including Covid requirements.
Would love to hear your own foodie suggestions, so feel free to share in the comments.
GALLE FORT & TOWN CENTRE:
- 39 Bistro at The Fort Printers: I first stayed at this converted 18th century mansion turned printing press for Christmas 2014, and returned six years later, to the day, for dinner. The hotel, including its bistro has since been spruced up a tad, so if you’re after a boutique property in Galle Fort, then this gem is your top pick. The menu marries traditional Sri Lankan dishes, coconut curries included, with more modern plates including the most tender tuna I have ever tasted – locally fished. I love the teeny tables overlooking Pedlar Street for roadside dining and people watching, but many prefer the magical setting of the courtyard overlooking the tiny pool.
- Aqua Forte: Owned and operated by a trio of Italians including the chef, I ate at this restored Dutch colonial house twice on my recent visit. The ravioli carbonara and twist on vongole are two star dishes. Next door sits their Neapolitan pizzeria, Aqua Pizza, which I didn’t manage to squeeze in. You will notice that after Sri Lankan food, Italian cuisine is the most prolific on the island.
- Amangalla: Galle’s grande dame property, the Amangalla is THE place for a sundowner, or even afternoon tea. The Sunset Balcony makes clever use of a top-floor corridor with breathtaking rooftop vistas.
- Church Street Social in Fort Bazaar: Go here at your peril. The indifferent and rude service had us and a neighbouring table leave the premises before placing our drinks and dinner order. In contrast, they managed to churn out decent margaritas for a quick aperitif on my first visit.
- Isle of Gelato: My husband’s sweet tooth assures me that this gelato, the chocolate orange flavour, is one of the best he has ever tasted.
- Withered Leaves: A tea shop in the Old Dutch Hospital precinct with zero hard sell. The silver needle white tea is well rounded and aromatic.
- On the subject of tea, the south houses one of Sri Lanka’s few low-elevation tea plantations, Handunogoda Tea Estate, run by the third-generation owner Herman. Specialising in white teas. Guided tours, a museum and a tea shop. A 40-minute drive from Galle Fort.
- The Shack Beach Café: A casual beach café on the outskirts of Galle town serves a wonderful selection of vacay-style food, smoothies and shakes, as well as a children’s menu. Farmers’ markets and live music events with a family-friendly anything goes vibe. Beach-fronted by Ahikava Surf School – Emma Riedel.
Walk off all the eating with a sunset stroll around the fort perimeter where you will easily clock up 15,000+ steps. Just avoid weekends or public holidays when the crowds descend.
A couple of shops worth your dirhams or rupees:
- Barefoot for brightly coloured tableware.
- Spa Ceylon with many branches for ayurvedic beauty products.
BOOSSA & GINTOTA:
- Arabella on Boossa: our home away from home for a nine-night stay. This teeny eight-room gem of a ‘private hotel’ as described by the Dubai-based Australian owners, one of whom is a designer, manages to combine intimacy with understated luxury in Sri Lankan Bawa-style. Smack bang on the beach, crashing waves will lull you to sleep as much as they will wake you up in the morning. Genuine, friendly service. Rates over the festive high season start at US$200 per night. The restaurant, Ahara (open 8am – 8pm) turns out delicious contemporary Sri Lankan fare, comfort classics, as well as barbeque nights for both inhouse guests and visitors. Order the egg hoppers for breakfast; ‘short eats’ aka giant croquettes or fish tempura tacos for lunch; and the lobster curry for dinner. 15 minutes via tuk tuk to Galle Fort.
Shops:
- Modern’s Handlooms & Handicrafts: Authentic handmade handloom fabric made in the back of the shop with traditional machines. Ready made cushions on sale, or buy fabric by the metre for their tailors to custom make – Emma Riedel.
- Roadside (no website/ in Gintota): Handmade clay cooking pots that make very cool souvenirs – for decoration or cooking – Emma Riedel.
UNAWATUNA:
- La Boheme: Renowned as the best pizzeria on the island, this glorified hut turns out two wood-fired cornicione crusts – plump, charred sour dough, or a thin crust – with a myriad of toppings. Always busy so bag a table early.
- Mamasan: This Pan-Asian joint sits atop La Boheme sharing the same French-Sri Lankan couple as owners. Pillowy bao buns to rival BB Social Dining’s with the USP of a char sui pork filling. Bold flavour punches with the Vietnamese dishes too.
- The Hideout: Our go-to for the ultimate chilli margarita and plantain chips with fresh guacamole. Delicious fusion style tacos. Head up a narrow concrete stairway for authentic views of Unawatuna, power lines and half finished buildings! No reservations. Closed on Wednesday – Emma Riedel.
- Angel Beach Club: Book a pool day pass redeemable against F&B. The wood-fired pizzas (once again), pina coladas and margaritas are a treat.
- WB Villa: Italian restaurant in a teeny private hotel on Thalpe Beach. First developed by Italians which is when I last visited, and since sold to new Sri Lankan owners.
- Wijaya Beach Bar: Authentic beach bar serving wood-oven pizzas, plus other basic salad and curry options, cold beer, and cocktails. Service has never been overly good but the location is a triumph. You can see giant sea turtles in the water from the balcony, and the beach to the left of the restaurant is perfect for young children to swim in – Emma Riedel.
- Skinnytoms Deli: A go-to for breakfast, lunch and great iced coffee (open until 4pm). The breakfast burger is our fav – Emma Riedel.
HIKKADUWA:
- Salty Swamis: Where the cool crew hang out. Excellent coffee and healthy bowls menu. Water is filtered, with a retail space selling surfboards and surf culture paraphernalia. Open daily except Monday – Emma Riedel.
WELIGAMA:
- Rise Weligama: For an Italian food fix, with a small curated retail space as well. Open daily except Monday. 5pm to 9.30pm – Emma Riedel.
- Ceylon Sliders: It’s about as far as we venture on a day trip in a tuk tuk. Cosy eatery opposite the famous Taprobane Island. The most delicious falafel bowl, and burgers with mini roasted potatoes. A small retail space graces the entrance, whilst the rooftop bar is perfect for a sundowner – Emma Riedel.
COLOMBO:
- Ministry of Crab: Ranked no 29 on Asia’s 50 Best list, this Colombo institution pays homage to fresh wild-caught mud crab – and the best you have ever eaten. The black pepper variation is my favourite, whilst the giant freshwater prawns in butter soy are also worth saving room for. They are due to open their first outpost in Dubai – you read it here first 😉
- Paradise Road The Gallery Café: A fabulous café which is more like a restaurant housed in a Bawa villa. You walk through an everchanging art gallery that showcases local talent. The food never disappoints including a cake display of everyone’s favourites – try the double chocolate cheesecake. Wonderful cocktails and a children’s menu – Emma Riedel.
- Nuga Gama: Sri Lankan fare in the Cinnamon Grand also came highly recommended, but another one I didn’t manage to try.
Shopping:
- PR Concept Store: Fashion retail showcasing local brands and products. Perfect tropical weather dresses and sandals, as well as great quality cotton basics from their own label, Maus – Emma Riedel.
- Paradise Road: Two neighbouring stores brimming with classic, simple, chic homeware – all made and designed on the island. With a timeless black and white colour code, this is the place to buy a souvenir that will never go out of fashion – Emma Riedel.
TRAVEL HOUSEKEEPING:
- WEATHER: The best time to visit the south coast of Sri Lanka if you’d like to avoid rain is December to March.
- FLY: I flew from Dubai to Colombo, Sri Lanka’s capital with Emirates – a four-hour direct flight. It’s a two and a half hour drive to Galle on the motorway – and hotels will organise a private car transfer with driver. FlyDubai also flies direct.
- VISA: Most nationalities require an ETA visa which must be applied for online in advance HERE.
- COVID ENTRY REQUIREMENTS: As of publishing, vaccinated travellers from the UAE can enter Sri Lanka with a PCR taken up to 72 hours in advance of departure. Once you have the negative PCR certificate, an online health declaration must be completed HERE. For the return journey to Dubai, a PCR up to 48 hours in advance is required, which hotels can organise. In addition, a rapid Covid test is mandatory at Colombo airport four to six hours in advance of the flight. The result takes up to one hour to come through, at which point you can then check in.
A bientôt.
FooDiva.
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