Where does Vaga draw the line between restaurant and nightlife concept?
I adore a night out. I live for awesome food experiences. Either one can make my day, my week, or even my year. But the two together? Combining vibrant nightlife with excellent food is a tricky business, and hence my intrigue to review new Dubai restaurant opening Vaga on a busy Friday night.
The upscale Vaga offering Arabian-Armenian cuisine is located at Bluewaters Island with the looming spectre of the stationary Ain Dubai wheel. Operated by Oy Hospitality with chef Sufyan Alkebata, formerly of Ninive at the helm, Vaga is welcoming and set over two floors, although diners are predominantly seated on the upper level. The lower-storey is quieter, brighter, less smoky, and has one of my favourite things: an open-plan kitchen. The upper floor is cool, darker, and modernly styled with obvious Arab and Armenian inspiration. Unfortunately, it is smoky with our table three feet from the bar; something I anticipated given the promise of shisha, but as the night wears on, the smoke becomes heavier and more noticeable.
This leads us straight into a discussion on are we eating in a bar-cum-club, or are we partying in a restaurant? A question that is emphatically answered by the end of the night. Our 8pm arrival means only a few tables are taken, and the music is contemporary, but at a reasonable volume. More guests arrive and the dining room boasts a positive, young, vibrant feel – exacerbated further with enthusiastic, well-drilled staff.
Vaga has a self-proclaimed dedication to cocktail excellence, supported by an open-plan bar and many bartenders. We enjoy a recommended cocktail and a superbly-priced Taittinger Champagne (AED85). Unlike some venues, Vaga clearly has a sommelier team and the wine list is varied but not predictable, with plenty of food pairing options.
When reviewing the menu in advance, I notice lots of similarities to famous UAE dishes, such as the lobster kibbeh, imam bayildi, honey-glazed Wagyu short ribs, and fruit carpaccio. We enquire as to why but, unsurprisingly, the service team is not aware. Supported by some traditional Armenian influences, the direction of the menu is clear to see, and the waiter confidently makes recommendations.
A cheesy amuse bouche is a taste sensation, but a palate-cleansing sorbet served before main courses is less welcome; but would have been perfect as a pre-dessert. We start with the aforementioned lobster kibbeh, plated simply and packed with flavour. My dining partner enjoys the imam bayildi, which, ironically, could be smokier to match the Orfali Bros incarnation. We have to try the lahmacun – a traditional Armenian flatbread served tableside and plated with a zingy and light side salad.
Some dishes have eyebrow-raising prices but we are encouraged to order a wallet-friendly manti for our main, alongside chicken musakhan. Manti is a beef-stuffed ravioli, but not in the traditional sense. Instead, crisp filo pastry is styled like a flower and opened with a theatrical touch – gorgeously filling. The musakhan carries a satisfying hit of pomegranate, but a rich side order of baked spinach and eggs is too heavy an accompaniment.
Come 9.30pm, it is party time. A DJ enclosed in a spherical ball is revealed through one of the walls and the volume is amplified by several decibels. Suddenly, it feels darker, more people are arriving, and the smoke lingers heavily. Vaga is a stylish restaurant with well-dressed and cosmopolitan diners. However, the concept changes from a smooth restaurant to a great bar, and the food becomes secondary.
After seven years of guest reviewing for FooDiva, I finally have my eyes on a soufflé in a city where pastry is too often lacking in excitement or technical skill. Unfortunately, the soufflé is not available and despite asking two waiters, I am not given a satisfactory reason for why. Sufyan – the head chef – is highly present on the dining room floor and how I wish for him to whip me up a nice banana soufflé as requested. At first, we are told to order something else in the guise of a recommendation, but this switches to unavailability once I persist. The rest of the dessert menu is familiar in Middle Eastern influence but even to my sweet tooth, there is not a dish that stands out like the declined soufflé. We opt for a refreshing mango carpaccio and an almond chocolate tart. The carpaccio does exactly as expected; light, slightly herby, and well-dressed, like the diners, to finish the meal nicely. The chocolate tart is dense, cold, massive and overpowered by a coffee ice cream. A better quality chocolate, the addition of some sea salt, and an ice cream flavour that elevates rather than deflates would do wonders.
Overall, Vaga is a fun place to dine and we have a largely enjoyable evening. The location has the potential to shine, once, and if the wheel runs again. The interior mellifluously melds with the intended modern Armenian-Arabian style and menu. The food is mainly satisfying and executed well until the slightly-too-expensive dessert section. Service is very good and the team is clearly well-briefed and sure of their roles. Nevertheless, the cigarette smoke impinges on the overall experience, and as the restaurant becomes more club-like, I wonder if I should be eating, partying, or both. The price point for our meal is AED342 per person without alcohol, but has the capacity to rise with many dishes. Vaga delivers a 3 out of 5 FooDiva knife rating and is a place I would revisit, but more for a celebration with friends.
What about you? Are you happy for the lines between serious food and party atmosphere to be blurred? Can a nightlife venue also succeed as a restaurant?
Who is guest reviewer Matt? A married man with an obsession for French wine and food, he loves nothing more than trying new restaurants and dishes with his wife and friends. Currently approaching dining at 100 Michelin star restaurants, his quest for great food knows no boundaries. His favourite chefs are Chris McClurg, Reif Othman and Tommy Banks. You can follow him on Instagram @finediningmatt
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