How does Fat Uncle fit into the Al Wasl Road dining family?
The satirically-named Fat Uncle, located conveniently in a dining hotbed on Al Wasl Road is a new Dubai restaurant by an Emirati-owned company, with executive chef Alper Uzundurukan (ex-Maine). Researching online in advance, the cuisine is trying to be all-encompassing, which always makes me nervous. From international classics to Mediterranean dishes, right through to char-grilling and farm-to-plate. However, upon dining, the menu focuses on Med-style fare, with a few global influences thrown in. There’s no reference to desserts though, which I am hoping is not an omen.
Booking a table is convenient via an online application, and necessary given the speed at which the Vita Mall restaurant fills up on a Friday afternoon. Fat Uncle has clearly become a local favourite, and the emphasis on community results in a happy, busy atmosphere.
Arrival through the open patio area – ideal for al fresco winter dining – is followed by a wonderfully warm welcome and we are invited to choose our own table. We elect to sit next to the unlicensed ‘Fat Bar’, with a range of mocktails based on real classic cocktails. We opt for water on this occasion – local not available, of course – but we are given complimentary mocktails after a long conversation with our waiter. The ‘Aperol Spritz’ is pleasant enough and the ‘Bellini’ not far off from the real deal, but I’m not sure I would order seconds of either. It does, however, spark conversation about Fat Uncle’s modern vibe with panelled sections of wood, mirrors, fancy lampshades, and neon light strips. It clearly resonates as a vibrant, contemporary bar – and this perhaps lures in the local crowd; a chance to enjoy a bar-like atmosphere, sans alcohol. Service is warm, with an eminently relaxed feel, which is just what we need after a tough working week.
The menu boasts Asian-inspired ceviches, lobster thermidor, steaks char-grilled in the Josper oven, oakwood-oven pizzas and plenty of Mediterranean-inspired fare. We opt for three starters. The beetroot brioche is amazing. I want more of it, and the dish looks as pretty as it tastes. The cured salmon slices provide an incredibly interesting combination of orange, anise and pine nuts – however the farm burrata, whilst pleasant, is too plain in a city brimming with dazzling burratas. I definitely won’t remember it, or re-order, like I will the brioche and the salmon. My only gripe is Dubai’s continued, lazy insistence on a sharing style service, almost à la minute. We make it very clear that we are ordering individual dishes, so we are forced into the lamentable dance of moving unwanted plates around the table.
The same dance occurs with the main courses, neither of which suit sharing between diners. My wife’s prawn tagliolini is light and hits the Mediterranean brief perfectly. My 240g Irish tenderloin is cooked as I request but the only sauces available on the menu are béarnaise and chimichurri. I do like both, but I find it baffling that a restaurant with a range of steaks – including an AED500 Japanese Wagyu – only offers two sauces. My tenderloin is crying out for something more classical, but to be fair, the chimichurri is excellent and well-balanced. The side of mashed potatoes with black truffle is silky, smooth, and as rich as it should be. The beef itself is missing a touch of salt and I have to sprinkle this on myself; something I rarely, if ever, do. A decent steak simply requires a little salt, with a belter of a sauce.
For the second FooDiva review in a row, my happiness with the food deflates rapidly with the ambivalent dessert offerings. Fat Uncle does not present us with a dessert menu. At first, we are given some vague oral descriptions without prices. A caramelised apple pastry turns out to be a tarte tatin. A chocolate mousse is actually an avocado chocolate mousse. Tiramisu. French toast. Carrot cake. Some charred pineapple. And, not ironically, Chef Dropped It. Which is actually described as I Dropped It on the bill. I request to see the waiter’s iPad to check out the desserts, and as many a menu writer will be pleased to hear, the lack of descriptor is a huge turn-off. We discuss leaving without ordering desserts – and maybe heading to nearby Orfali Bros – but begrudgingly choose Chef Dropped It, and the avocado chocolate mousse. Both desserts are as flat as you might expect from not having a dedicated dessert menu. The creativity, balance and planning evident in the rest of the menu is sadly lacking in the sweets, and makes for a dismal end. Chef Dropped It appears as a slice of custard tart on its side, with unacceptable soggy pastry. The addition of avocado to a mousse reinforces why I have never welcomed this combination. It’s simply no longer a mousse. Surely Dubai has some talented pastry chefs who would love to play around with the Mediterranean theme by producing an exciting selection of tasty, well-executed desserts. We are told that the dessert menu is in development, but that’s of little consolation, in particular when paying AED45 for each one.
Despite the ending, overall, I like Fat Uncle. Much of the food is good, the location for an unlicensed venue is superb, and there is a definite desire to create a vibrant local eatery. However, in a neighbourhood filled with big-hitting flavour sensations, a few additions to the menu are required to allow Fat Uncle to compete. The price point of AED235 per person based on three courses each is reasonable, given that the steak alone is AED185. I will be back, but only when Fat Uncle publishes a proper dessert menu. With that sentiment, Fat Uncle scores an average 3 out of 5 FooDiva knife rating.
What’s your menu preference? Traditional three courses (with desserts!) – or sharing style?
Who is guest reviewer Matt? A married man with an obsession for French wine and food, he loves nothing more than trying new restaurants and dishes with his wife and friends. Currently approaching dining at 100 Michelin star restaurants, his quest for great food knows no boundaries. His favourite chefs are Chris McClurg, Reif Othman and Tommy Banks. You can follow him on Instagram @finediningmatt
No comments yet