“Yes please” to RSVP
Al Wasl Road is undergoing a trend with unlicensed, homegrown restaurants aiming to replicate the atmosphere and style of licensed establishments. Everyone else can stop trying now. New Dubai restaurant opening, RSVP has cracked it at Boxpark.
RSVP is an Atelier House Hospitality concept with chef Aadel Ouaoua at the helm, who hails from Lyon – the supposed home of gastronomy – and this experience sings out throughout the menu and the food we order. If my favourite cuisines are French and Japanese (and they are), then RSVP melds these together seamlessly. French ingredients and styles, marry nicely with Japanese flavours and techniques. It’s only a gentle nod towards Japan but that’s OK; anything more would be confusing. Chef Aadel’s time working for Phil Howard at The Square is denoted by classy pastry, whilst his experience at Nobu Mayfair, and with classic French chefs, is notable and exciting.
On a weeknight, the gloomy-but-cool exterior lures you in to a wood-decorated, sultry and incredibly busy restaurant floor. The welcome is as warm and honest as you can get, however the first thing that strikes is the local crowd. We are possibly the only non-natives in the restaurant, with an atmosphere that is positively humming with chatter and happy vibes. The ‘bar’ looks like it’s licensed, with a dedicated team pouring mocktails and non-alcoholic concoctions. Comfort is in abundance and the soft, welcoming chairs trap me inside so that we do not want to leave. Most tables are surrounded by ample space, which allows for an element of privacy, whilst remaining social. It becomes apparent very quickly that each team member has a role, of which they ooze confidence.
Our mocktails are classy, bright, flavoursome, and massively moreish; maybe even more so if they are at a lower price point. Dubai struggles with well-priced mocktails where they can often cost as much as, or more than, a glass of wine.
Ultimately, I am here for the food and the attractive menu has been on my mind for days. I cannot pass up the chance to try the escargots au beurre persillé, which comes with mini breadsticks designed to be dunked into the luxurious, parsley butter. Ooh la la, chef! Yellow tail sashimi is perfectly cured in the gingered chive sauce, tosa-zu and smoked sesame oil. So many interesting flavours, expertly handled. My partner enjoys a rigatoni au morilles; the creamy pasta complemented by morel mushrooms and smelling gloriously of the forest (in a good way!). The star of the show, the king of the menu, and the dish that screams the loudest, is the côtelettes d’agneau. Charcoaled lamb chops that glisten in their jus and a sticky, teriyaki sauce. The four plump chops are cooked to medium-rare perfection; worth every single one of the 250 dirhams. A chef of this calibre has no problem sending out a satisfying gratin dauphinois; the ideal partner to the sticky lamb.
During the service, chef Aadel carries out regular tours of the restaurant, checking on his food, charming customers, and we are delighted to chat at length about France, Lyon, Phil Howard, and his food influences. As part of that charm, Chef Aadel sends over a dessert on the house that we would have ordered anyway; choquette au chocolat. Anyone who has lived in France will be familiar with the small balls of choux pastry, and these here filled with a crème diplomat and served with a chocolate sauce, are a delight. Designed to be shared, I ate very single one. In seconds. We should stop eating at this point but I am here for the fondant au chocolat and despite being full, I’m not leaving without trying it. You know, for the review. The fondant is huge and I suspect it’s for sharing. However, it is so light and with the touch of someone who understands good pastry work, somehow easy to eat. Accompanied by vanilla-speckled crème anglaise and a hidden crumble, it’s a rare triumph for true Dubai pastry fans. Most diners order the ice cream tower, complete with fun sparkler, which is a clever, non-mundane way to serve what is essentially vanilla ice cream.
RSVP is fun, moody, eclectic, and most importantly, serves outstanding food with impeccable, confident service. Its promise of “wit, elegance and fun” is very much delivered. Reservations are essential and guarantee an affable atmosphere, with the bar vibe expertly achieved. The location is central, however AED349 for three courses per person is on the premium side, in particular for an unlicensed establishment. Given RSVP is always busy, customers are clearly not objecting to the price point though. A sign of a top restaurant is one that I would happily return to, and with RSVP, I say “yes please” to a repeat visit, despite the bill – evident in an excellent 4.5 out of 5 FooDiva knife rating that only seven Dubai restaurants have ever achieved. There are only two aspects that I would change – a slightly more wallet-friendly price tag – and licensing, so I can enjoy a Bordeaux with the gorgeous flavours on show.
What about you? Is a top-class menu enough to keep you going back, or do you want the alcohol too?
Who is guest reviewer Matt? A married man with an obsession for French wine and food, he loves nothing more than trying new restaurants and dishes with his wife and friends. Currently approaching dining at 100 Michelin star restaurants, his quest for great food knows no boundaries. His favourite chefs are Chris McClurg, Reif Othman and Tommy Banks. You can follow him on Instagram @finediningmatt
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