Top Dubai restaurants: a FooDiva 2023 guide

The eighth edition of the annual FooDiva guide to top restaurants in Dubai is here. 38 homegrown, independently operated, locally developed concepts have made the cut. These gems tick every box – food, first and foremost; as well as service, location, interior, atmosphere and value for money – in line with FooDiva’s editorial policy.

You won’t spot any imported celeb chef brands, franchises or large chains here. Dubai now has a matured restaurant scene of its own, with independent chef-led and owner-operated concepts dominating the limelight – something we should be proud to champion.

These are restaurants that I have chosen to frequent over the last year when I am not reviewing newbies on the block, that are consistently good, and where I pay the bill. Some, I have showcased in my #ThreeChefsDinner dining experiences, on my request. Whilst I would love to dine at every single restaurant in Dubai, in one single year, it’s simply not practically or even financially possible. I am keen to know your favourite haunts, which may just prompt my next restaurant outing – so please feel free to share. Whether you’re a UAE resident or a visitor, this guide is designed as a bucket list round-up to inspire your next breakfast, lunch or dinner. That’s how I use it 🙂

For the first time, towards the end of this guide, I have included a few of my go-to restaurants for delivery.

Entries are categorised by licensed and unlicensed (without alcohol), sub-divided into districts, and then alphabetically. If you’re after bespoke tips and foodie itineraries, then check out the FooDiva restaurant recommendations service.

LICENSED

Bluewaters Island

Alici: Despite the suspension of Ain Dubai (will it ever re-open?) on Bluewaters Island, this Amalfi-inspired seafood restaurant should be on everyone’s bucket list. The deep-fried anchovies ‘alici’ are a must-eat, as is the sea urchin spaghetti, paired with picture-worthy views and a striking coastal décor. Walk off lunch or dinner with a stroll across the pedestrian footbridge from Bluewaters to JBR Walk soaking up the scenic skyline.

Dubai Marina

Bistro des Arts: This gem on Dubai Marina Mall’s promenade transports diners to a quintessential Parisian bistro offering a genuine taste of classic French fare with go-to plates of escargots, steak tartare and crêpes Suzette. Breakfast, a Frenchie ‘brunch’, culinary themed soirées, as well as the regular lunch and dinner à la carte menus are all on offer.

Dibba Bay Oysters: A licensed oyster ‘shack’, Dubai-style. On the lawns of Sheraton Jumeirah. Overlooking JBR beach with views of the sunset and the stationary Ain Dubai. Unlike the original unlicensed sibling at Jumeirah Fishing Village, cooked local oysters are on the menu here. The Kilpatrick, even with beef bacon, are utterly delicious, umami-laden morsels. Five additional grilled flavour combinations might tempt your taste buds, as are raw oysters, smoked Salmontini salmon, local burrata, and not-so-local (obviously) caviar.

L’Amo Bistro del Mare: A joint venture between Piero Giglio and Sunset Hospitality at the Dubai Harbour complex. A stunning structure resembling the hull of a boat houses a Southern Italian restaurant with seafood specialities including a fresh fish display taking centre stage.

Tamoka: Latin-American meets Caribbean restaurant, Tamoka; a sundowner beach bar, Cana; and a food truck, Cana-van. With, very importantly, pork on the menu. You may get sand in your toes, but only once you’ve slipped off funky sneakers or jewelled sandals. A dedicated, slick team runs this hotel-operated show at the Ritz-Carlton JBR Walk.

JLT

Mythos: This slice of Santorini in JLT impresses with its no-frills simplicity and charm across both food and décor, despite the lack of a view. A charming husband and wife team run the kitchen and front-of-house respectively. Always busy, so book well ahead. The only Greek restaurant in Dubai (and we have many) to feature pork on the menu. A second licensed branch has recently opened at City Walk.

Palm Jumeirah

Byron Bathers Club: The latest opening by Tom Arnel on Palm Jumeirah has replaced Bidi Bondi. An Australian seafood-focused menu that Tom developed with his mum. The differentiator? Native Australian seafood ingredients. A terraced restaurant with bistro-style seating and trestle tables overlooks the pool; an al fresco oyster bar; and beachside dining. Make sure to order the crayfish from Perth.

Ibn Al Bahr: My go-to restaurant at the Club Vista Mare complex on Palm Jumeirah’s eastern shoreline. A Lebanese seafood tavern owned by fishermen. Choose fish from the daily catch on display, along with a selection of meze plates from the à la carte menu, and enjoy a meal on the terrace, or even the sand, soaking up vitamin sea.

Ossiano: Talented French chef Grégoire Berger has returned to his original home at Atlantis with a seafood tasting menu inspired by his Brittany homeland. The innovative immersive culinary experience may be the priciest dinner you will ever have here in Dubai, but a worthwhile investment for a special occasion treat.

Tresind Studio: The chef’s table concept of inventive Indian fare by chef Himanshu Saini relocated to Palm Jumeirah last year. The rooftop of the St Regis now houses more covers, whilst retaining the intimate experience – as well as a bar-lounge and terrace.

Umm Suqeim

Bastion: This brasserie-cum-steakhouse atop Jumeirah Beach Hotel shows off a breathtaking view of Burj Al Arab, from both the French window-framed dining room, and the bijou terrace. Oysters Rockefeller. Foie gras. Beef tartare, prepped tableside. Steaks, tomahawk included. A cheese trolley. And a few serious plant-based dishes.

Folly: With new chef Bojan Cirjanic at the stove, the menu is completely revamped, whilst continuing to marry classic European-style cooking with playful touches. The portions are much more substantial now, which always pleases hungry me. The prime sundowner setting at Souk Madinat Jumeirah overlooks the waterway and Burj Al Arab.

Taverna Greek Kitchen: This Greek restaurant at Souk Madinat lives up to its taverna name with a casual, rustic décor and expansive boardwalk. Greek chef Thodoris Rouvas ensures classic, authentic dishes including the signature slow-roasted lamb shoulder and a fresh fish display – all at a wallet-friendly price point.

Jumeirah

Mimi Kakushi: Baked bone marrow. Beef tartare. Teeny fried savoury buns. Pickled onions. All these umami flavours in one sole dish. Mimi Kakushi is an independently operated Japanese concept at the Four Seasons Jumeirah’s restaurant village. The food may be modern Japanese, but the striking nouveau Orient decor harks back to 1920s Japan evoking a true sense of place.

Downtown Dubai

Jun’s: A chef-led independent concept by Chinese-Canadian Kelvin Cheung, whose career has spanned the US and India. Surprisingly, unlike its neighbours, Jun’s is licensed – on the main Downtown Dubai boulevard – thanks to landlord, Vida Residences. The cuisine claimed is “Asian-North-American”, paying homage to Kelvin’s heritage. That’s quite a melange of cultures, and for want of an overused word, but highly relevant in this case – fusion. A well-engineered menu with intriguing ingredient and flavour combinations.

Time Out Market Dubai: A food hall in Souk Al Bahar with 17 best-in-class Dubai concepts, whilst a terrace overlooks Burj Khalifa and the magical fountains. The choice of dishes is hugely overwhelming, so I would urge using the app to help decide in advance, whilst reading the FooDiva tried and tasted guide of course. Also saves time with online ordering and payment. I veer towards the vendors that I don’t often frequent (or order in) due to their location – like Slab Cocina for Latino fare, and Lana Lusa for Portuguese morsels, pasteis de nata included.

DIFC

Avli: A cavern-cum-temple to modern Greek dining, Avli, which translates to ‘courtyard’, ticks the upscale restaurant box from Dubai’s Grecian craze. A test of any Greek kitchen is the execution of feta saganaki – and Avli’s, with its crisp honey-drizzled filo is the city’s best, rivalling any one might find in Greece. I recently taught myself to bake it – no mean feat.

BB Social Dining: This owner-operated townhouse of a restaurant hidden in DIFC feels like a cosy speakeasy, boasting a Far-Eastern menu. The plump, pillowy bao buns, freshly baked in-house daily are Dubai’s best. The ground floor terrace makes for pretty conservatory-style surroundings. BB also offers catering (as do most restaurants in this guide) – something I can vouch for with my birthday celebration.

Boca: A Mediterranean concept with a strong Spanish tapas slant that embraces a sustainable menu ethos sourcing locally, whilst minimising food wastage. The wine list boasts Dubai’s most comprehensive selection of organic, biodynamic, sustainable and natural wines. The working wine cellar makes for an intimate private gathering.

Josette: A new French restaurant by the talented team behind Alici and Il Borro. In DIFC’s ICD Brookfield Place (right next to The Arts Club). Classics with a teeny twist weaved into the menu – from the snails with garlic almond butter, and pan-fried seabass with ‘fish scale’ potato slivers – to the rib-eye with Café de Paris sauce, and the flambé tableside finale of crêpes Josette with blood orange. Likely the sole restaurant in Dubai to boast its own house Champagne. All interwoven with extraordinary entertainment.

Ninive: A magical open-air setting with what I would have previously described as a Middle Eastern and North African menu – but I have now replaced with the correct geographical terminology of West Asian & North African. Hidden amongst all the foliage are majlis-style alcoves with lounge seating. An independently operated concept at Jumeirah Emirates Towers.

Sheikh Zayed Road

Opa: The only Greek restaurant in Dubai to offer plate smashing, a tradition no longer prevalent in Greece. Surprisingly, the setting with its own dedicated entrance at the Fairmont Dubai is intimate. The menu may aspire to mostly modern Greek fare, however, Turkish influences do creep through.

Wafi

The Nine: This pub at the Sofitel Obelisk is known for its Sunday roast lunch. For me, it’s all about the Yorkies (Yorkshire puddings) whether with beef, as tradition dictates – or any protein – all of which are on the menu here. The prime rib-eye of beef hails from Canada, whilst the English pork is showered with love from Dingley Dell, evident in the tender meat. And the crackling is simply put – a cracker – as are the cauliflower cheese croquettes. Make sure to leave room for the piping hot and ridiculously moreish apple pie.

Garhoud

Fujiya: I know I’ve discovered a good restaurant when a) the place is brimming with natives jovially tucking into their food – in this case Japanese – and b) I want to order every single dish from a mammoth menu. Independently operated with a dedicated entrance next to the Millennium Airport Hotel Dubai’s ballroom, Fujiya is a traditional Japanese izakaya aka pub. Go here to feast on affordable Japanese comfort food whether kaki oyster fry, ramen or shabu-shabu. A second outpost lives in the Swissotel Al Murooj.

UNLICENSED (WITHOUT ALCOHOL)

Palm Jumeirah

Depachika Food Hall: Inspired by Japanese basement level department stores, this food hall in Nakheel Mall on Palm Jumeirah boasts 40+ dine-in and retail vendors, with many homegrown concepts – including my go-to, Kilikio, by the Mythos team. There’s even a booze shop.

Barsha

Sisi’s Eatery: Dubai’s best Wiener schnitzel, in my opinion. The last time, I demolished one as delicious, was in Berlin. And if you don’t believe me, the local Austrian community raves about this Austrian cafe with a German chef. In Dubai Hills Mall. This pounded, breaded veal cutlet screams succulent golden goodness. Served with lingonberry relish and the choice of a tangy potato ‘salad’ or crisp shoestring fries.

The Lighthouse: If you’re after healthy Mediterranean fare in Mall of the Emirates away from the white noise of the main thoroughfare, head upstairs to the Apple Atrium. I never fail to order the grilled aubergine with minced lamb. The concept store with quirky gifting items and novel cookbooks will pull at your purse strings. There are two more branches in Dubai – the original licensed restaurant in D3, and at Nakheel Mall.

Umm Suqeim

21grams: A charming bistro that has paved the way for modern Balkan cuisine in Dubai. The premises may sit in an obscure mall (Meyan), but it does have a terrace with both Burj Al Arab and Burj Khalifa views. Open for all-day dining – however, the breakfast dishes, along with the savoury burek and phyllo pastries are the highlights.

Kaftan: Dubai houses many casual Turkish eateries, but not many that manage to elevate Ottoman cuisine to a finer, exquisite level in the pretty garden setting of a converted villa overlooking Wild Wadi. A breakfast hangout for the eggs with sujuk.

Lila Wood-Fired Taqueria: Dubai has a host of so-called Mexican restaurants, but the majority (not all) serve Tex-Mex cuisine. This teeny gem on Jumeirah Beach Road (the Umm Suqeim 3 end) serves up an authentic taste of Mexico. The tortillas and tostadas are hand-pressed using heirloom corn from Mexican farms that is ground daily to make the masa (dough). Exactly as I recall from food trucks lining Mexico City’s streets.

Jumeirah

3Fils: Go here for the picturesque al fresco location at Jumeirah Fishing Harbour and small plates of modern Japanese fare, with the food singing as much as the setting. Save room for inventive desserts next door at sibling Brix.

Odeon: Remember long-gone Market & Platters? Well picture a deli twice the size. An Aladdin’s cave overflowing with fresh seafood, cheeses, charcuterie (halal), traditional home-cooked French dishes, right through to patisserie, groceries, and every condiment under the (Jumeirah) sun. And if that wasn’t enough, head upstairs, rooftop included, for breakfast, lunch or dinner over classic Frenchie fare. The French husband and wife owners manage the kitchen and FOH respectively making this Jumeirah beach road villa a food lovers haven.

Orfali Bros Bistro: The Syrian trio of Orfali brothers have created a tiny gem of a restaurant showcasing cutting-edge cooking with an ode to flavours from West Asia (the new term for Middle East) in the Wasl 51 complex – almost bordering on a chef’s table concept. With two of the brothers as pastry chefs, the dessert counter is a prominent feature. Be sure to indulge in the caviar-topped ‘doughnut’. Book well ahead.

Reif Japanese Kushiyaki: An edgy Japanese eatery in Dar Wasl Mall from Dubai-based Singaporean chef, restaurateur, and the maverick Reif Othman. Reif is a creative soul, constantly adding new dishes to his tick-your-own-order menu. Thankfully, my favourite dish, the baked avocado with seaweed butter and teriyaki sauce remains a constant feature. A four-seater chef’s table meets kitchen counter, TERO (The Experience by Reif Othman) allows him to personally cook an omakase tasting menu.

Yaba: The alert on the menu and exterior signage of Yaba at Vita Mall by young Iraqi chef Shaheen screams: “Warning: This restaurant doesn’t serve traditional Iraqi food.” A genius strategy to manage guest expectations – in particular from purists, who are always the first to condemn their own cuisine when a dish strays from ‘grandma’s cooking’. Chef Shaheen was an architecture student and an online content creator when he reached the finals of Masterchef UK 2020. The pandemic hit, and a focus on home cooking catapulted his social media accounts into the millions. He relocated to Dubai to showcase a different take on Iraqi cuisine. The star dish? A savoury kubba canelé.

Jaddaf

Teible: Homegrown. Chef-led. Unlicensed. Local, seasonal produce, protein included. Fermentation. Pickling. Ageing. The chef Carlos Frunze De Garza calls his cuisine ‘renegade’. He also loves to tell a story through engaging descriptors on mini cards placed on the table to accompany each dish. Teible wears two hats – a seasonal breakfast and lunch menu, and a dinner tasting concept – all at the Jameel Arts Centre premises.

Motor City

Neighbourhood Food Hall: A no-frills food court meets food hall destination in Motor City by Nicky Ramchandani from JLT’s Streetery. With a similar vibe to Asia’s hawker centres. 11 homegrown, owner-operated kitchens. Go with a gang of friends so you can feast away.

Bastakiya

Arabian Tea House: Good Emirati fare is, sadly, hard to come by in Dubai – but if you dig deep, you’ll uncover Arabian Tea House. Of the city’s four locations, the Bastakiya branch is the prettiest and where the tourists flock (read Instagrammable). I first visited on the recommendation of Natasha Sideris (Avli & Tashas fame) demolishing her go-to dish of grilled halloumi, ordering seconds, and returning for their sumptuous breakfast trays which are more representative of the national cuisine. The name is a nod to the unlimited black tea served in dainty Arabian glass teacups.

RESTAURANT DELIVERY

When I do eat at home, I tend to prefer cooking to ordering in – but if I do go down the delivery route, other than some of the restaurants already mentioned, here are my go-tos. All have physical locations. I try and avoid cloud kitchens where quality control can often be an issue.

• Allo Beirut for Lebanese meze including Dubai’s best shawarma.
• Han Cuisine for Chinese. The Peking duck with pancakes, which can only be ordered direct, sells out quickly, so plan ahead.
• Pizza: Pitfire and RossoVivo for a cheat meal, Roman-style and Neapolitan pizza respectively. For the most feather-light of pizzas, Akiba Dori. And for a ‘healthier’ pizza, the cauliflower crust from Freedom.
• Roseleaf Café for tray bakes and whole cakes whilst entertaining at home.
• Sumo Sushi & Bento and Sushi Art for…you guessed…sushi, sashimi and poke bowls.
• Vietnamese Foodies for duck betel leaf sausages and pho (pronounced feu please!).
• Zaatar W Zeit for the salads, all of them.

A bientôt.

FooDiva. x