Mexican authenticity at Lila Wood-Fired Taqueria
Unlike popular opinion, I adore the word ‘authentic’ – even more so when I discover restaurants ticking this box in a city that boasts every cuisine under the sun, with many a fusion interpretation. Dubai has a host of so-called Mexican restaurants, but the majority (not all) serve Tex-Mex cuisine. Imagine my delight when I stumble upon a genuine taste of Mexico with Lila Wood-Fired Taqueria. On Jumeirah Beach Road. The Umm Suqeim 3 end. Homegrown, of course. Unlicensed, like most restaurants high up on my radar these days. But boozy friends, fear not, a second licensed establishment is in the works.
So why is Lila authentic?
- Everything is made in-house from scratch. For instance, the tortillas and tostadas are hand-pressed using heirloom corn from Mexican farms that is ground daily to make the masa (dough). Exactly as I recall from food trucks lining Mexico City’s streets.
- Grilling happens over oakwood fire.
- One signature dish, the ‘al pastor’ is a spit-roast brought to Oaxaca, Mexico’s south-western region famed for its food culture, by the Lebanese. Think shawarma-style. Typically pork, but given Dubai licensing laws, Lila uses lamb – a marinated shoulder cut. You’ll glimpse the vertical skewer stand from the window.
- A compact menu. Whilst Lila is open for lunch as well as dinner, the wood-fired dishes are only available from 6pm onwards – and the al pastor from 3pm. So heed my advice and go for dinner (closed on Monday).
- At the helm of a Mexican-centric kitchen team (or at the least, Spanish-speaking, from what I can hear) is chef patron Shaw Lash with a career dominated by Mexican concepts. When I visit, she’s running the front-of-house, presenting the dishes, and engaging with all diners.
- Where possible, native ingredients are sourced, including heirloom tomatoes from Pure Harvest, Dubai’s most succulent, in my opinion – with seafood from local fish markets and Oman. The freshness in flavour is evident throughout.
- And last, but not least – fajitas, enchiladas and quesadillas that dominate Tex-Mex cuisine are nowhere to be seen.
Exactly one month into opening, we pop in on a Friday evening for an early dinner. The two homemade salsas (a three-chilli mix, and tomatillo jalapeno), as well as a guac that we kick off with, are all mild in spice, which allows the robust flavours to shine through. The tortilla ‘chips’ for dipping are nothing like I have seen in Dubai – as large as my hand, with an uneven crust and a bubbly crisp.
Next up, we order a seasonal special, ‘tlacoyos’ – torpedo-shaped blue corn masa tacos – another ode to authenticity. Imagine the teeniest calzone, but with a side slit that reveals black beans. Two tacos are topped with a tomato salsa, and an aged Mexican queso cheese that gives a hint of tartness. Easy to demolish in a large mouthful.
The spit-roasted lamb with radishes and a herby salsa arrives pre-plated, on three tacos. My pet peeve of odd numbers. Please do give four so we don’t fight over the last one. I appreciate this might be an upselling technique, but it leaves a sour taste. In contrast with the first two dishes, these tacos surprise us with a fiery spice.
And lastly, the pièce de resistance. Local whole red snapper. Butterflied, and grilled over oak. A tale of two halves with the red side marinated in guajillo chilli – and the green in coriander – both relatively mild in heat. The accompaniments are made up of addictively delicious, charred spring onions; black beans; and an avocado tomatillo salsa. Plus tacos in a warmer – three only, again. This dish is designed to be eaten Peking duck-style, as build-your-own tacos, with the ingredients wrapped together.
We’re completely and utterly full. The sole dessert option on the menu, churros, will have to wait for another visit.
Food quality aside, Shaw’s presence and engagement with us and other diners makes Lila memorable, whereas her staff, whilst well-meaning, lack her menu knowledge. I overhear Shaw imparting some of her expertise to the staff, so she is well aware of the limitations. A greeting by one staff member as soon as we walk in of “Do you have a reservation?” in a restaurant that only has one table occupied is unnecessary, off-putting and inhospitable. No, we didn’t make a reservation for a casual unlicensed restaurant – and clearly, we didn’t need to either.
The dining room sits upstairs with a décor that is not particularly inviting, but in Lila’s case, and in most casual neighbourhood concepts, I am here for the food – and frankly, the interior is way down my list of priorities. As a bonus, the fact that the design is not photogenic may even alienate those non-foodies who simply dine out for the perfect Instagram pic. A blessing, frankly.
The price per person of AED200 offers stellar value for money in a prime Jumeirah Beach Road location that even boasts valet parking. The food ticks all my boxes – flavour, technique, quality of ingredients, presentation. And authenticity. Many other dishes call out to me, luring me to return, which I most definitely will. Lila is one of those restaurants that encourages impromptu, casual dining – any day of the week. And starting from this weekend, breakfast launches. Service requires fine tuning, but am confident, with a little time under Shaw’s stewardship, the team will soak up the training. Here’s to a four out of five FooDiva knife rating.
How important is authenticity to you when selecting restaurants? Does it matter more to you for certain cuisines?
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
Sorry – but I am not so much buying authenticity (Mexican cuisine).
First: Tacos are very much a (modernized) Mexican stereotype. Second: enchiladas, quesadillas etc. are not necessarily tex-mex. There are even Mexican burritos – all of those just look a bit different than the tex-mex versions.
But guacamole? Look – guacamole is authentic Mexican – but even more a stereotype and far less eaten by Mexican (and in greater “unknown” varieties) than people assume. The typical guacamole is definitely an ode to Tex-Mex!
I also doubt, that they are making their masa from dried corn, which they nixtamal themselves (I do it myself at home) – but from purchased masa harina (even if it is made from heirloom stuff). Also I am missing (for authenticity) different (free) salsas and pickles.
Another point: Al Pastor. I feel, that lamb is not really going it justice. Tacos arabes would work far better with lamb than al pastor. Chicken works I think better – or even better: veal.
The biggest issues though is the price. We are looking at street food in an unlicensed restaurant and everything is served authentic but rustic. It should be far cheaper. I am not a cheapskate – but common – the prices are ridiculous.
So I am really questioning here the understanding of real authenticity – which is always directly connected with price-value – but also with culture. In my eyes it is a curated restaurant – which not only curates the ambience, their PR, the menu, but also the appearance of authenticity (basically they play with the perception of authenticity).