How does the first “modern Emirati” restaurant in Dubai fare? Gerbou reviewed.
From when I first started reviewing, 14 years ago, I have always insisted that Dubai needs modern Emirati restaurants for the dining scene to be taken seriously on the global culinary map. More recently, international awards by Michelin and 50 Best feed into the bucket lists of visitors, and we want these guests to seek out Emirati cuisine as their first port of call – as should we, as residents. Traditional concepts like Al Fanar and Arabian Tea House, as wonderful as these are, are not enough.
Well we now have one such restaurant. Gerbou.
The PR is quick to point out in an email: “While it is not authentic Emirati cuisine, the food served reimagines Emirati-inspired cuisine through a modern lens and while embracing global influences and celebrating local craftsmanship.”
To me and you, that’s short form for “modern Emirati cuisine.”
Having dined at Gerbou exactly six weeks after opening (escaping any recognition), the menu is much broader, spanning Khaleeji dishes, as well as influences from across the Arab world – entwined into both classics and contemporary fare.
In fact, the consultant chef and a poster child for Emirati cooks, the talent that is Sahar Parham Al Awadhi did explain in an interview for my Conde Nast Traveler USA, UK & Middle East feature end of last year that the menu weaves in “Indian, Levantine and Mediterranean flavours” which she grew up with. Indeed it does.
And that’s all perfectly fine and necessary to maximise the appeal to a global palate. However, some have vocalised publicly online, and in private to me, the lack of cuisine authenticity. There’s a lesson here in managing expectations better with the right communication on Gerbou’s website and social channels, as well as by the front-of-house team. Now you know.
Gerbou is a collaboration between restaurateurs Atelier House Hospitality, most well known for 11 Woodfire – and Tashkeel, Dubai’s art and design incubator helmed by Sheikha Lateefa bint Maktoum.
The name translates to “welcome to our humble abode.” But there’s nothing humble about the grandest of entrances.
CLICK HERE TO READ THE REVIEW.
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