What is Kizmet’s destiny?
Does food taste better with a story behind it? Can someone make you relate to their childhood favourite treats – and would you really care? And wait, before I even start to relay the story, what if the chef gives the dishes a modern day twist? This is the theme for Kizmet – a new Dubai restaurant brought to Downtown boulevard at Dubai Opera by the Baker & Spice team.
Kizmet is an ancient profound word, translating to destiny or fate that a large part of the Orient can relate to. At first glance you might mistake Kizmet for a Turkish restaurant, like I do, until I read the marketing material and browse the website. I have mixed feelings of apprehension and curiosity, given the menu features a few unfamiliar dishes.
The restaurant spans two storeys with a welcoming open plan kitchen on the ground floor and a bar upstairs. An overdose of colours and props adorn Kizmet as we walk up the kilim-covered staircase to dine balcony-style – in keeping with the opera theme, I guess. Our very friendly waiter greets us and explains how the diversity of the staff both in and outside the kitchen is reflected in the menu – which is inspired by dishes they grew up enjoying in their home countries.
The quirky menu reminds me of the original Noodle House-like form where we pencil in our choices. The cuisine is indeed diverse – I note Spanish, Thai, Italian, Moroccan, Chilean and Eastern European dishes, among others. We don’t get off to a good start though with the my girlfriend is not hungry dish. Simply put, it is an avocado tempura – but the crust is too oily around soft avocado. The arancini with octopus bits, wild rice and aioli is quite delicious, but two deep fried items in succession is too greasy for my palate.
The drinks come to the rescue, and I must say, I love the cocktail menu – a short list, all priced at AED65 with variations of traditional cocktails creatively named. Float like a butterfly sting like a bee is concocted with vodka, toasted buckwheat and honey ginger – a very refreshing creation with honey ginger performing the butterfly and bee act, whilst the toasted buckwheat gives the drink an earthy base. Kiss & fly boasts passion fruit and rhubarb with an interesting contradiction of cacao. Gentleman’s plum is Kizmet’s variation of the old fashioned – with more flavours coming from umeshu (for the plum), amaretto and basil that are added to the bourbon and bitters.
Sadly, they run out of cactus salad and fig-mozzarella, the two requests from my vegetarian dining partner. Portions are small to moderate sized, and we order a lot. The hummus with tofu churros, swiss shard and almonds combines creativity and flavour. The artichokes with toasted buckwheat and creamy walnut sauce does not go down well for an artichoke fan, with large, mushy hearts, and the flavour solely concentrated on the outside.
The pasta sheet with liquid Parmesan, wild mushroom, ricotta and leek ash (the leeks are baked until browned and then blended) is rich and creamy with shaved black truffle doing its job – a hearty and well balanced dish. The skirt steak, one of those wonderful long-forgotten cuts (from the plate below the ribs) is cooked medium. As expected from this cut, it is a little chewy, and yet should have more flavour. The tagine with duck leg, couscous, harissa and almonds is very well executed, with the meat falling off the bone into a wild fragrant couscous base – so aromatic that I refuse to share.
Whilst very full, we cannot avoid sampling the concise dessert menu. The tres leches looks like a plump toadstool with milk paper on top, and coconut and yuzu foam together forming the ‘three milks’ – a creative plate that would appeal to non-purists. The chai and apple pie is much more my cup of tea – a decadent dessert with fried pie dough, caramelised apples, candied pecans and chai ice cream.
My recommendation is to only order one deep fried dish (or skip them all together), and save your appetite for the other soul food items. Service is excellent. The space is cosy, however the two levels boast disparate interior designs, almost as if these are different concepts, and the music is a little too loud. At AED140 per head based on three dishes each (without alcohol), I daresay Kizmet is, arguably, the most affordable licensed restaurant I have ever visited in Dubai. I expect this new home grown concept will do well given the street level location, and in particular as Sean Connolly has closed (with a newcomer setting up shop). As destiny would have it, I give Kizmet 3.5 out of 5 FooDiva knives.
Would you visit a restaurant for variations of your childhood favourites?
AK
Who is FooDiva’s anon guest reviewer? AK is an avid gastronaut who thinks that a day without a good meal is a day wasted. He has travelled the world exploring culinary delights, including a treasured dinner at El Bulli. He works as an investment banker in Dubai.
I loved this restaurant. I appreciate its down to earth vibes (similar to Baker & Spice) – but where you can also get a glass of vino. You didn’t miss much with the mozzarella dish. Its one of the more expensive dishes on the menu but was my least favourite. The fig makes you think its a sweet salty dish but it was quite bland and could use a generous dollop of honey or some jam. Still, love this new addition to Dubai’s restaurant scene.
Nancy – that’s a fair assessment. I will inform my Partner that she did not miss much on the fig!
AK