The Pangolin: it’s not all in the name
The Pangolin. This scaly anteater, which looks like a giant moving artichoke, has purported trafficking links to the origins of Covid-19. It also happens to be Sergio Lopez’ (ex-Tom & Serg) new dining complex at The Els Club in Dubai Sports City – the name signed off well before the word coronavirus was uttered by any of us. Simply unfortunate timing. Ironically, a restaurant venture delayed by the pandemic. The menu by Australian chef Troy Payne, Greg Malouf’s chef de cuisine for many years, boasts the odd African influence, a nod to this endangered Sub-Saharan species.
The first of two restaurants (and a couple of bars) opened early last month – a casual all-day dining eatery on the ground floor of The Els Club extension, with a terrace overlooking a soon-to-open swimming pool. Unfortunately, despite the mask, I am recognised on arrival for a Friday 7pm dinner reservation – but, fortunately, I do pay the bill in full.
The menu is, thankfully, paper printed (whilst I appreciate the safety and sustainability attributes, I am not a fan of QR codes) – and in another bonus point for me, all on one page, making it easy to assimilate dishes. In what I think is a new dining trend, there’s no clear cuisine category – simply some South-African influences (think home-made biltong) and old-school Australian dishes inspired by Troy’s childhood (boasties are his version of burgers). Simply by reading the menu, it’s clear he’s put tremendous thought into every single dish – leaving you guessing the story and heritage behind each plate; the intriguing flavour profiles and combinations; and ultimately, wanting to order it all. It’s one of those rare menus that compel you to return and eat your way through it. In particular as the cooked oysters that I have set my eyes on, are unavailable. “Fire-roasted with burnt chilli, rum and pineapple butter, pineapple molasses,” if you wanted to know. That’s something we should have been told when presented with the menu – not after having made our selection. And that’s my sole service quibble. The Pangolin prides itself on sourcing local as much as possible, so, other than the odd reference to ‘local’ on the menu, it would be beneficial to see this substantiated with all those ingredients highlighted – and a credit to the suppliers perhaps?
There’s an interesting vegetarian main course section that goes by the name of “meatless”. We order the beetroot kebabs as a starter, which arrive on two large metal skewers. There’s a delicate smokiness to the al dente, crisp-like shavings, which is offset by the sweetness of blood orange marmalade and confit garlic. Troy’s own home-made dry aged ‘feta’ is crumbled as a garnish. I have added the inverted commas as, strictly speaking, he’s not permitted to call it feta, given Greece’s PDO registration – but as it’s delicious, albeit less briny than Greek feta, I’ll let him off.
The carve-your-own duck crown main course is marinated in stone fruit molasses (a twist to pomegranate, Troy explains), barbequed beautifully pink and served on a bed of wilted kale. Good duck dishes are a scarcity on Dubai menus – and with this one, the star of the night, I would encourage you to order it.
Our second main is kingfish, which I would never have selected, had Troy not claimed it as a favourite. Charred ‘meat-y’ flavoured fillets sit on a bed of sweet, smokey and tangy BBQ sauce, with bloody HOT pickled peppers. The presentation is a little lacklustre, unlike the duck – however the on-point flavours rule, and have converted me to a kingfish lover.
Sides are required for these mains so am glad we order a couple. Whole braised Brussels sprouts and green beans are smothered in buttery goodness. I would have liked the biltong as more generous slivers, rather than a few shavings. Local greens are served in a decadent creamy wholegrain mustard sauce, as a spin on a classic creamed spinach.
The dessert selection is a-plenty. We opt for one of the fried ice cream flavours, Troy’s take on classic Chinese restaurant desserts back in Australia (and worldwide for that matter). The Malva pudding is a traditional South-African sweet. Three generous scoops arrive with a crumbed, spongy shell, and hints of cinnamon and coconut. A tad too dry for my liking. The dark chocolate and peppermint ‘Pangolin’ pops, which are offered complimentary, are simply put – an After Eight on a stick. Eat them at your joyous peril.
The Pangolin is Troy’s first solo Dubai venture, giving him a long overdue platform for his culinary talent. The Greg Malouf influence is clear (or perhaps it’s Troy’s influence on Greg) – but the slick engineering and execution of this menu show that Troy can deliver on powerful, unusual flavour combinations and cooking technique.
The wallet-friendly wine list shows a bottle of Taittinger Brut Reserve for AED450 (including all taxes) – and a glass at AED95. One of Dubai’s cheapest. A smooth Argentinian Malbec-Petit Verdot (Tensions La Ribera) is priced at AED60 per glass – and a South African Pinotage (Stellenrust Premium Estate) at AED55. And at AED245 per person based on three courses each (without alcohol), The Pangolin easily ticks the value-for-money box.
The location at The Els Club is not as ‘far out’ as perceptions may dictate. A 15 minute drive from Knowledge Village on a Friday evening makes it a swifter journey than DIFC. Please note, The Pangolin sits on the right as you enter the complex, well before the main clubhouse – and would benefit from some exterior signage.
For those who need some reassurance, all Dubai Municipality health and safety regulations are adhered to. The South African influence is clear with an interior that mimics a colonial-style Cape Town dining room – however, this is one restaurant in Dubai, where you go to for honest, thoughtful food, high on flavour – not to gawp at the décor. Or to people watch. Thankfully. And for that, it’s a high four out of five FooDiva knife rating. Please do keep in mind that the recognition could have played a role with some of the execution. My Instagram story poll shows that, out of just over 2,000 entries, 82% have not yet tried The Pangolin. So if you do go, please let me know how it fares for you. The separate breakfast menu, sadly only served until 11.30am, boasts a staggering 16 savoury and sweet dishes.
The Pangolin’s choice of name may be unfortunate, but there’s nothing unfortunate about this dining experience. Bravo.
Any other homegrown restaurant concepts worth checking out?
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
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