A FooDiva guide to under-the-radar restaurants in Dubai

Dubai boasts a staggering 20,000 or so restaurants, but many go under the radar. This guide celebrates those gems, all homegrown concepts, that deserve more love from us. These low-key establishments are not necessarily hidden away, but perhaps lack a stonking marketing budget, or simply cater solely to their neighbourhood communities. The majority don’t serve booze, but a couple of licensed joints have sneaked in. None have ever received dedicated reviews on the FooDiva website – or made the cut in my annual restaurant guide, to date.

I was inspired by editor Laura Coughlin’s article in What’s On a while ago – and then, in addition to my recommendations, asked you, readers and followers, for your go-to spots that fit the bill.

So voilà, have a read and promise me, you’ll check out one of these restaurants every month. I certainly will. Note: the listing is in alphabetical order.

Feel free to share more recommendations.

FOODIVA TRIED AND TASTED RECOMMENDATIONS:

• Arabian Tea House: Good Emirati fare is, sadly, hard to come by in Dubai – but if you dig deep you’ll uncover Arabian Tea House. Of the city’s three locations, the Bastakiya branch is the prettiest and where the tourists flock (read Instagrammable) – but for balmy Dubai winters, I love the quaint patio of the more obscure outpost opposite Jumeirah Beach Hotel in The Mall. I first tried this place on the recommendation of Natasha Sideris (Avli & Tashas fame) demolishing her go-to dish of grilled halloumi, ordering seconds, and returning for their sumptuous breakfast trays which are more representative of the national cuisine. The name is a nod to the unlimited black tea served in dainty Arabian glass tea cups.

• Bentoya: Hidden behind the low-rise Kawakeb buildings on the Sheikh Zayed, unassuming Bentoya opened a couple of years before my arrival in the sandpit – back in 1997 – and I used to frequent it regularly when we really didn’t have many Japanese dining options. 24 years later, this institution for traditional Japanese cuisine remains a popular choice amongst Japan’s community and other expats. Ideally, perch yourself at the sushi bar to chat to the chefs.

• Cast: A seafood bistro on Al Thanya street (same strip as Waitrose) with both indoor and terrace seating. The menu with some sustainably sourced fish offers a Pan Asian-Spanish fusion interpretation with star dishes like caviar-topped hasselback potatoes, squid ink paella, and grilled seabass served Jimbaran (Balinese)-style on addictive home-made potato crisps.

• Dibba Bay oyster shack: Dubai has been calling out for a casual oyster shack for years, and, thankfully, now we have just that. The Fishing Harbour 2 complex, sandwiched between Kite Beach and Dubai Offshore Sailing Club, houses not only any oyster shack, but one dedicated to locally farmed bi-valve molluscs from the UAE’s eastern coast of Dibba Bay. Plump and meaty Dibba Bay oyster no 3s, shucked to order. A compact menu also boasts organic smoked salmon, local burrata with tomatoes, bruschetta, and even caviar. Plus, a side of sea breeze. And for the summer months, the space is transformed into an air-conditioned glasshouse. A peek HERE.

• Eric’s: I first tried Eric’s, a charming Goan café in Karama well before my FooDiva days when I lived in neighbouring Bur Dubai, the expat community of choice at the time. More recently, a second Al Safa location has popped up that also houses a bakery open for breakfast. Gorgeous Goan seafood curries aside, over the years, the menu has broadened to offer North Indian delicacies, and Indo-Chinese specialities.

• Hyu Korean: One of a myriad of cheap, cheerful eateries dotted around the foodie destination of JLT. Korean cuisine is hugely under-represented in Dubai, but dig a little deeper into the sandpit – and you will come across the odd goodie like Hyu, recommended by many a chef too. Korean BBQ aside, order the marinated beef short ribs and the stir-fried fish cakes.

• Kilikio: Mythos’ Greek deli concept in Depachika Food Hall, Nakheel Mall. Expect classic Greek dishes like honey-drizzled feta in filo ‘saganaki’, cabbage dolma avgolemono, gemista stuffed veggies, souvlaki kebab in pita – or for a lower carb option, in a bowl.

• Kish Mish: I am delighted Kish Mish re-opened earlier this year in its original Dar Wasl mall location – the foodie destination of the Safa district. Here you’ll find a refined take on fragrant Afghani classics like the plump mantu dumplings.

• Little Bali: Another JLT gem. Little Bali offers more than authentic Indonesian food, covering Thai, Korean and Chinese dishes as well – but it’s the endless variations of Nasi Goreng with a choice of protein that are worth drooling over.

• Maiz Tacos: For some reason, Maiz does not get the love it deserves for simple Tex-Mex street food served out of a colourful JLT location. Whether you’re after tacos, burritos, quesadillas, enchiladas, healthier bowl versions – or even catering for your next do, the wife and hubbie team have you covered. Luma is also the lady behind the lockdown-famous Basque burnt cheesecake.

• Mohalla: My descriptor of upmarket Indian street food may sound like an oxymoron, but this charismatic D3 gem serves up a treat using quality, preservative-free ingredients, and a refined cooking technique turning traditional dishes into pretty morsels. To sample as much of the mammoth menu as possible, I recommend dining with a few friends.

• Seaview: In the same al fresco complex as Dibba Bay’s oyster shack sits a fisherman-owned restaurant serving the catch of the day from a chilled display. Simply choose the cooking style and a selection of meze sides. Don’t miss the towering tempura prawns, as a starter. I’ve been known to kick off with oysters at Dibba Bay, and finish with mains here, before popping into the fish market next door for king prawns destined for the barbeque.

• Terra: This eatery is located in the Waitrose Al Thanya complex. Likely to win the award for the most beautiful restaurant in Dubai with earthy tones (hence the name), cosy nooks and crannies, and a tropical garden setting. The menu by an ex-LPM sous chef does boast some similarities – and, sadly, only slightly cheaper – but that ties in well with its neighbour, Dubai’s most expensive supermarket.

READER RECOMMENDATIONS:

• Al Jalboot: Emirati seafood restaurant in the sea-facing Al Souq complex on Jumeirah Beach Road.

• Daikan: ramen restaurant in JLT and DIFC, with a third outlet opening in Depachika Food Hall soon.

• Fish Gourmet: teeny seafood restaurant right next to 3 Fils in Jumeirah Fishing Village 1.

• Golden Joy: Chinese joint in the depths of International City. I hear many restaurants in this district are worth discovering.

• Kahto Grills: Iranian grill house in Nad Al Hamar.

• Khao Siam 45: Thai restaurant in Barsha.

• Maisan 15: remember the Cabin in the depths of Barsha? Replaced by a new multi-purpose restaurant, cafe, gallery, garden and library with a compact menu inspired by Levantine flavours.

• Mamaesh: Palestinian café on Al Wasl Road. No reservations. I have tried to visit twice on weekends over the last couple of years, only to face queues in the heat, so time your meal with the weather cooling down, or on a weekday.

• Manna Land: Korean institution in Satwa.

• Mis Amigos: Tex-Mex food truck in Motor City.

• Saaranga Bhojanshala: Indian vegetarian restaurant with several locations – Bur Dubai, Business Bay, Dubai Marina and Discovery Gardens.

• UZB Avenue: Uzbeki restaurant in Barsha.

• Wakha: For Shinwari, a Pakistani tribal cuisine that prides itself on charcoal-grilled lamb cooked solely with salt in its own fat. Locations in Barsha, Jumeirah and Al Nadha.

A COUPLE OF LICENSED RESTAURANTS:

• Hibachi: Formal teppanyaki restaurant in Movenpick Grand Al Bustan in Garhoud (ex-Rotana).

• Wawa Dining: another Japanese joint, this time an izakaya in Barsha’s Golden Tulip hotel.

A bientôt.

FooDiva.

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