Can Alici bring a taste of the Amalfi coast to Dubai?
Italian food has to be one of my favourite cuisines. The versatility of its native ingredients combined with the simplicity of its cooking style, intrigue me in a way that no other food culture does. This intrigue brings me to new homegrown Dubai restaurant Alici (which translates to anchovies) on Bluewaters Island, a southern Italian seafood concept and sibling to regular haunt Il Borro Tuscan Bistro.
Bright whites and fresh blues create a feeling of the Amalfi coast, yet provide an intimate and homely ambiance in a well considered interior. The floor-to-ceiling windows allow an abundance of natural light to filter through, giving diners a breathtaking view of the JBR skyline.
Alici’s simple yet varied menu showcases fresh catches of Mediterranean and locally sourced seafood – all sustainably fished. Several sections abound, as you’d expect, with our waiter fantastic at recommendations, talking us through the menu and addressing our questions. The menu starts with an impressive crudo bar, a carefully selected range of raw fish options (all for under AED100) – including scampi, tuna tartare and pagro reale (Japanese sea bream). Then it’s on to ‘primi piatti’ of pasta, risotto, pizza and Alici specials (AED70 – 175), before the ‘secondi’ main courses (AED85 – 170). However, on the latter, there are a couple of exceptions with two Wagyu dishes (AED210 for the striploin and AED295 for the tenderloin). For sharing, the sea bass, sea bream, turbot and Dover sole range in price from AED210 to a staggering AED520.
Our Thursday evening dining experience starts off well, with the perusal of an extensive 250-strong wine list boasting not only Italian wines, but varietals from around the world, half of which are European. We order an Italian Vermentino in keeping with the Italian seafood concept, which pairs perfectly with an antipasto of burrata. Translating to ‘buttery or buttered’, this classic Italian cheese is fresh, soft and pillowy, whilst the organic heirloom tomatoes are indeed sweet and succulent, like you would expect to find in Italy. However, the Alici ‘signature’ of fritto misto (in this case red Mazara prawns and calamari), although enjoyable and tasty lacks a wow factor to be labelled a signature dish.
The pasta mista features beautifully hand-made al dente cavatelli, fusilli and cavatappi pasta with a few clams, langoustines, mussels and red Mazara prawns in a delicious flavoursome white sauce creating a delightful amalgamation of ingredients. However, it’s missing more shellfish in keeping with the ‘mista’ dish. What does stand out from the menu is the spaghetti datterino e scampi that I order based on the waiter’s recommendation, but, alas, the kitchen has ran out. My second choice – spaghetti alici e mollica (a signature plate with anchovies, capers and black olives) provides a balanced combination of pasta, sauce and fish with plenty of umami flavours. Along with a personal touch of chilli, this choice makes for a sensational dish.
On to my favourite course of the evening – desserts – and I am happy to see cannoli on the menu. I am even happier when confronted with the super presentation. Three crispy bite-size cannoli shells boast a creamy filling, each one individually embellished with flavourings of pistachio, orange and chocolate – a simple and effective twist. I am, however, a little disappointed with the tiramisu. The coffee element is robust enough, but lacks flavour through the creamier layers.
We decide to end our evening by enjoying a nightcap of Limoncello-based cocktails which also tenders to my sweet tooth. Although not the cheapest cocktails in town (AED70 and upwards), along with the striking views, it wraps up our Italian dining experience beautifully.
Alici is determined to keep with Italian tradition by mixing southern Italian ingredients and Mediterranean inspired seafood. The menu provides ample choice without being novel. The food is full of flavour and we enjoy our dishes, minus the small hiccups. The culinary techniques, from handling raw fish to the exquisite presentation of the cannoli, showcases the kitchen talent and its homage to the Amalfi coast. The staff are courteous, patient and knowledgeable, giving us a real feel for the restaurant through their approach and explanations. Based on three courses (without alcohol), expect a bill upwards of AED300 per person. I would definitely return to sit on the thoughtfully adorned second level – and on the balcony before the humidity sets in to soak up the expansive views. With all this in mind, I give Alici a FooDiva knife rating of 4 out of 5.
With such a plethora of choice in Dubai, where’s your favourite Italian restaurant?
Steve
Steve is one half of the food-loving duo behind Eat Meat Wine Repeat. Married British teachers Steve and Hannah always explore the world through food, living by the mantra of ‘try new things’. Lovers of both food and liquor, they have a weakness for anything sweet and a fascination for all things meat. Follow their food journey on Instagram via @eat_meat_wine_repeat
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