To pop into Kayto or not?
Promoting a new Dubai restaurant as a six-month pop-up is, likely, a clever marketing ploy to entice diners quickly and often – before changing the concept to lure them back in again. With that in mind, I half-expect an outdoor-only venue solely operating for the winter season – but, no, Kayto, billed as a Peruvian-Nikkei restaurant at Jumeirah Al Naseem boasts an indoor dining room and a secluded terrace.
Making the most of the sublime evening breeze, we opt for al fresco, overlooking Burj Al Arab in all its technicolour glory. The press release shines light on a sunset setting, yet Kayto’s restaurant closes between 3.30 – 7pm missing sunset completely now and right up until March when it will shut shop. The bar, however, is open from 5pm.
I can tell a tourist a mile away, and all our fellow diners are in-house guests. So much so, even one of the managers asks if we’re on half board. At least I know I am not recognised.
Nikkei cuisine is essentially Japanese-Peruvian fusion, so to describe a restaurant as Peruvian-Nikkei is like saying ‘Peruvian-Japanese-Peruvian’. So, does that make Kayto more Peruvian than Japanese? I may be pedantic, but these things are bug bearers for foodie residents and visitors. Just to confuse matters, the chef is Japanese-Argentinian. Anyhow, let’s put all this positioning aside for now, and see how the meal fares.
Kayto offers à la carte – and a four-course tasting menu for an expensive AED410. Needless to say at that price, we opt for the former. We steer away from ordering sushi given its prevalence across Dubai.
Starters are excellent, well-executed and full of flavour. A Japanese okonomiyaki, that, for the sake of the holidaymakers I expect, is described as a ‘crepe’. Shredded cabbage, shrimp and veal bacon are the main ingredients in the batter, replacing the more common octopus – all tied together with a spicy mayo drizzle and a blanket topping of dancing bonito flakes. Umami flavours at its best. Another, even punchier dish, is a dainty tower of salmon tataki, dressed in a miso karashi sauce.
Alas, both our main courses disappoint. A Josper-oven octopus and a marinated sea bass, whilst prettily presented, are overcooked, making for a tough, stringy texture. Just a few minutes extra cooking time can ruin seafood and fish. The sea bass is served on a bed of creamy risotto-style Amarillo rice which, sadly, leaves a strange cheesy after-taste.
The chocolate fondant (served with hazelnut ice cream and nut brittle) is reasonably good, but not as molten as it should be. The menu definitely leans more towards modern Japanese, with the odd nod to Peruvian and broader South American ingredients, so the team may want to reconsider Kayto’s cuisine descriptor. The bar does make a bloody good pisco sour though.
Where the food frustrates, the service excels across the board, with the managers and waiters running an informed, friendly and efficient front-of-house operation.
For three courses per person (without alcohol), expect a price point of AED285 and upwards. If you can stick to the ‘cheaper’ dishes like we do, then Kayto makes for a reasonably priced night out. Oddly, without an explanation as to why, we are comped one starter and dessert. Perhaps they sense our disappointment with some of the dishes. The clientele may be touristy, but with a busy weekend service, the ambience is buzzing.
When considering all the parameters that make up a dining experience – food (spanning flavour, technique, quality of ingredients and presentation), service, location, interior design, atmosphere and value for money – it’s primarily the main courses that let Kayto down. As someone who comes from a PR background, a restaurant’s positioning and messaging are integral to managing a diner’s expectations. It’s not one of the listed criteria in my editorial policy, so I can’t include in my rating, but this dinner and other recent experiences give me plenty of food for thought. I can excuse one main, but two dishes tell me the kitchen has an issue managing execution. And for that, it’s an average three out of five FooDiva knife rating.
Are you tempted to pop into Kayto? Any other similar ‘pop-ups’ in town worth paying a visit?
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
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