Should you visit Saudi Arabia now?
Unless you’ve been living in a cave over the last few months, the news that Saudi Arabia is opening up has made headline news around the world – thanks to a country’s marketing machine in overdrive with sponsored media coverage and press visits galore. A landmark decision to entice 30 million visitors annually by 2030 – adding to the largest GCC population of 33 million. Whilst this move is welcomed and long overdue, having visited myself last month on an entirely self-funded trip, Saudi is trying to run before it can walk, with a lack of infrastructure and availability of information online to support its magnificent natural geography, an inspiring F&B scene and the tourism crusade.
I would liken the country to my first visit to Cuba over two decades ago – virgin territory ripe for exploring. However, they will get there…eventually. In the meantime, you might need to grin and bear the odd impatience, but a mini break is most definitely exciting and worthwhile, in particular if you can time it for the Winter at Tantora Festival that runs until the 7th March. The spectacular setting is Madain Saleh in Al Ula, often likened to Petra. If you can’t squeeze a trip in now, it re-opens permanently from October.
Having first travelled to Saudi over a decade ago, when expensive business visas, abayas and segregated dining were mandatory, I was in no hurry to return. However, a ten minute online visa process (US$125 for one year multiple entry), a modest Western dress code (no abaya required), and free restaurant seating (hurrah!) encouraged me to venture back. No alcohol though. Yet.
The authorities have abolished any segregation in restaurants, even before the official announcement which came AFTER my visit. I was even invited to a local’s house, in his family’s majlis, where men and women feasted on lamb kabsa together.
Riyadh’s restaurant scene is more fascinating than Jeddah’s, with some intriguing modern and fusion spins on Saudi cuisine, drawing on the country’s diverse food culture. Traditional Saudi comfort dishes like jareesh (a dense porridge of wheat and rice topped with caramelised onions); mandi (slow-cooked meat with rice); saleeg (creamy rice with meat and tomato salsa from the Hejazi Western province); and hinaini (a doughy dessert of bread mixed with dates and butter favoured by the Najdis) are lightened, and often deconstructed.
One of the many pop-up locations in Riyadh even overlooks the ex-‘Execution aka Chop Chop Square’. Yes, imported and franchised concepts still abound – but if you dig deep and do your research (or simply continue to read here), Saudi boasts a good number of locally developed establishments. ALL are Saudi owned and operated, many with women at the helm, chefs included. Interestingly, by law, all menus must list the calorie intake of each dish. Don’t expect to find websites for these restaurants – most are solely on Instagram, and most only in Arabic – one thing that will need to change.
For a country to develop a strong and mature food identity with personality, it needs to draw upon its food culture. And Saudi Arabia with six distinct provinces, each with a number of regions that celebrate indigenous ingredients and flavours, is well placed to do so. They should continue to drive Saudisation and local talent with the development of more culinary schools and international cooking scholarships – adding to the existing Zadk school and Le Cordon Bleu partnership. All these combined pave the way for the development of homegrown concepts, especially those that specialise in Saudi and broader Middle Eastern cuisine. That’s what will set the dining scene apart, not just from its Gulf neighbours – but also internationally.
If you’re more a podcast type, here’s a short interview with my Saudi musings on Dubai Eye’s Business Breakfast. And here’s a feature in Caterer Middle East with industry expert commentary.
As for where to eat, here are my dining recommendations for Riyadh and Jeddah:
RIYADH
Takya: my number one pick not just for Riyadh but Saudi Arabia – pictured above. This locally developed concept, owned by a Saudi lady who meets and greets guests, serves Saudi fusion food inspired by five of the country’s provinces. Saudi ingredients with European-style cooking techniques make for light dishes with bundles of flavour. A dedicated entrance means you don’t have to enter the Elite Mall. Gorgeous art-laden interior. A must-order is the sous vide ‘slow-cooked’ pigeon with foie gras plated at the table.
Zaad: currently a pop-up in Ad Diriyah (above) that is looking to become a permanent fixture both in Riyadh and in London. Hence the “Zaad London” branding on social media. Unlike Takya, Zaad’s interpretation of Saudi dishes is much closer to traditional cuisine. Both the presentation and cooking style are refined, whilst staying true to the original recipes. There’s no a la carte – simply four set menus, each with three courses for SR375 making Zaad a pricey night out. White tablecloth seating with views of the evening light shows are a reflection of an impressively elegant dining venue.
Lusin: ever since I first tasted lahmaju on trips with my uncle to an Armenian street food shack in Cyprus, I fell in love with this country’s cuisine. Lusin has a number of locations in Saudi Arabia. I visited the outpost in Riyadh’s Centeria Mall, so naturally this interpretation veers towards posh mall dining. But the lahmaju is just as moreish, as is the cherry kebab – pictured above.
Coffee: quirky coffee shops are a-plenty in Riyadh, as they are in Dubai. A couple that are worth a visit are Draft Café with multiple locations – great as a work hub. And Elixir Bunn Café for excellent quality coffee roasted on site.
A few other recommendations from followers that time didn’t allow me to visit:
- Najd Village: traditional Saudi food in a heritage setting.
- Sultan’s Steakhouse: Turkish-style steakhouse in both Riyadh and Jeddah.
- La Rustica Pizzeria: for classic Neapolitan pizza.
- Section B: burger joint with locations in Riyadh and Jeddah. Even Dubai residents flock here.
- For more coffee: Camel Step; Bookccino (also boasts a library); Brew 92: Nabt Fenjan; The Coffeeholics; and Ame House.
JEDDAH
Meez Street: my number one pick in Jeddah, recommended by Ahmed from The Foodies SA who guided me around some of Jeddah’s eats – see above. Soul and street food from across the Middle East with a retro décor. Go here for a carb fest. The Palestinian musakhan popsicles are a must-eat.
Al Balad old historical district: book a two-hour walking tour with Jeddah Bliss (ask for Abir – Jeddah’s first female tour guide) in this UNESCO World Heritage site which includes a visit to an 80-year old bakery, Al Saeedy, for pillowy soft khoobz bread straight from the flames of the brick oven – and quirky café, Historical Nights for rooftop vistas. The district’s old pilgrimage road is a good spot to buy dates and addictive tamarind candy from the many vendors.
Coffee shops: go to C Hub for minimalist décor with an on-site barista and roastery – or Boho Café for a hippie vibe.
Laila Garden: I went all the way to Jeddah to dine in a Greek restaurant. The chef is Cypriot and a family friend who I was keen to catch up with. Located in a strip mall, which seems to be the mall design of choice in Saudi. Order the halloumi filo parcels and the slow-cooked lamb shank aka ‘kleftiko’, pictured above.
The Lounge at the Park Hyatt: sip jasmine tea on the terrace overlooking the Red Sea and Jeddah’s famous King Fahd fountain – the highest in the world, even beating Geneva’s.
A few more recommendations from followers:
- Amar: the baby of one of Jeddah’s top TV chefs.
- Tofareya & Stita: a couple of quick service joints for modern Hejazi food.
- The Social Kitchen: popular Mediterranean restaurant.
- Shrimp Anatomy: the first of a number of eat-with-your-hands shrimp concepts.
- The Smokehouse: as you would expect from the name, smoked meats galore.
- Gulf Royal Chinese: old-school Chinese institution.
- Baco: Asian bao concept.
- And lastly, one more coffee fix: Caffeine Lab.
A SPOT OF SIGHTSEEING FOR DIGESTION:
Ad Diriyah in Riyadh: the site of the first Saudi state located on the outskirts of Riyadh. The highlight is the UNESCO-listed At-Turaif, a sprawling mud-brick 15th century city complete with medieval fort. Entrance tickets must be bought in advance, or else you will end up roaming round endlessly without gaining access – like we did.
Edge of the World outside Riyadh: Saudi Arabia’s very own breathtaking ‘Grand Canyon’ – a 1.5 hour drive from Riyadh. We booked a sunset trip with Ghazi Tours that includes a BBQ dinner. Highly recommend.
Al Balad in Jeddah: Jeddah’s old town dating back to the seventh century. A maze of streets boasts crumbling coral-limestone houses decorated with intricate latticed windows in a myriad of colours. Renovation is under way, however it’s a slow and painful process because the extended families who own each house have to ALL give approval. We were the only tourists wandering around! Spot the aptly named ‘Mykonos’ bayt below 😉
Any more restaurant and sightseeing recommendations for my next visit?
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
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