Where to eat and drink in Athens: A FooDiva culinary guide to Greece
Within just one hour of strolling around the streets of downtown Athens, mask-free, a huge weight lifted off my shoulders – and I could finally breathe easily, figuratively and physically. No doubt helped by smog-free, clear blue-sky days. My trip to Greece earlier this month, was my first spot of travel (and a flight!) since Italy for work in February last year – and 18 months since my last holiday and culinary guide (to India). Travel is so liberating; something I will forever treasure and will never take for granted again.
Why Greece you may ask? Firstly, a travel corridor with the UAE, making it slightly simpler. More on that at the end of this guide. Secondly, I speak the lingo. Thirdly, my sister, who I hadn’t seen in over two years, was flying there. And lastly, a Greek food fix was the perfect interim solution for a taste of home before heading to Cyprus.
This guide highlights 20 top picks for Athens. A couple more restaurants that I didn’t rate as highly are saved in FooDiva’s Instagram #GreeceDiva highlights – alongside tips for Thessaloniki and Skiathos, one of the Mamma Mia islands where we met my sister and family. As of publishing, with summer Covid restrictions, restaurants are only permitted to serve outdoors, so request a table with a breeze. Masks only have to be worn indoors – in effect that’s the airport, hotels and some shops. Be warned – no safe spacing anywhere!
So here you go, make yourself a frappé, and have a read:
- Ergon Agora: the Athenian equivalent to Soho House. Boutique hotel aside, go for the extensive breakfast menu on the rooftop terrace. Preferably early before it gets too hot. On the way out, browse the gourmet grocer and deli for foodie gifts.
- Feedel: casual al fresco lunch or dinner off Athens’ main shopping street of Ermou. Second location on Glyfada’s coast. We demolished plate after plate of local produce with bold flavours. The vegetarian dishes in particular were a highlight. Innovative cocktail list using many a savoury ingredient.
- Aleria: smart tasting menu dinner in a gorgeous courtyard with modern Greek cooking that beats some Michelin restaurants. Book in advance.
- Yiasemi: hippie café with steps for seating. Makes a refreshing lemonade pitstop whilst walking around the old town of Plaka.
- Da Capo: a café institution in the posh Kolonaki district. Renowned for iced coffee and mini brioche rolls. Whilst here, take the cable car to Lycabettus Hill, the city’s highest point, for 360-degree views, and a peek inside teeny St George’s chapel.
- Dionysos Zonars: pop in for a beverage or a bite to eat after visiting the Acropolis. It’s also en route by foot to the modern Acropolis museum, which is a must-visit.
FROM PREVIOUS VISITS
- Galaxy Rooftop Bar: cocktails overlooking the Acropolis in the Hilton.
- GB Roof Garden: in Athens’ grande dame hotel, the Luxury Collection’s Grand Bretagne. Go here for breakfast and Acropolis views. The guest rooms are very tired so save your euros for another bed.
- Karamanlidika Tou Fani: charcuterie and preserved meats meze.
- Different Beast: cute café for brekkie or lunch in another smart district – Kifisia.
BUCKET LIST
The following spots recommended by foodie friends were on my bucket list, but sadly time didn’t allow. An excuse to return next year. We have since decided that we will return every summer to try a different island – combined with a few more Athenian restaurants.
- Tzitzikas Mermigas: modern Greek tavern with a number of locations.
- Kostas: kerbside souvlaki and gyro joint in Plaka.
- Barbounaki: charming seafood restaurant in Kolonaki.
- Cookoovaya: for ‘wise Greek cuisine’.
- Café Avissinia: rooftop dinner overlooking the Acropolis.
- Diporto: renowned for ‘ladera’, olive oil marinated dishes.
- The Clumsies: World’s 50 Best bar for inventive cocktails.
- Artisanal & By The Glass: a couple of establishments priding themselves on sustainability – as recommended in the Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery guide.
HOTEL
For a boutique-style, hotel recommendation, the M Gallery Athens Capital Hotel is centrally located and brand new. The rooftop pool is a huge incentive given the summer heat – and they do make a mean Pina Colada, my poolside drink of preference 🙂 I would stay here again in heartbeat.
WINE
On the subject of booze, apart from some very well priced Champagne, the only other wine I drank was Greek rose, of which the country boasts plenty of good ones – as follows. Plus a couple of links to paint a picture of Greece’s wine regions – and of Grecian grape varietals.
- Alpha Estate, Hedgehog, Xinomavros, 2020
- La Tour Melas, Idylle, D’Achinos, Agiorgitiko, 2020
- Lantides Estate, Little Ark, Moschofilero
- Ktima Gerovassiliou, Xinomavro, 2020
- This Cretan goodie: Manousakis Winery, Nostos Pink, Grenache-Romeiko-Syrah
- And for a touch of pink fizz: Kir Yiannis, Akakies, Ximomavro, 2018
COVID TRAVEL
In light of our new tiresome Covid travel era, Greece’s PLF form must be completed online at least 24 hours in advance. You will then receive an email with a PDF and QR code at midnight Greece time before travel. Take a printout preferably. As of publishing, with the UAE travel corridor, vaccinated passengers (Sinopharm included) do not need a negative PCR test for the outgoing journey, but it is a requirement for the return leg, which hotels can organise. Regulations change constantly so do check regularly.
Any more Athenian gems to add to the bucket list? And which Greek islands do you love?
Kalo taxidi kai kali orexi 🙂
FooDiva. x
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