Service versus food at L’Amo Bistro Del Mare
Hot on the heels of the Michelin Dubai guide announcement with its fervent focus on the quality of food, I wonder how L’Amo Bistro Del Mare would fare under the steely guidelines of a FooDiva review which rates restaurants on more parameters, six in fact – food, service, interior, atmosphere, location and value for money – all in equal measures.
I head to the beautiful new Dubai Harbour development and the stunning building shaped like the hull of a boat, or the bones of a fish, if you believe my dining companion. The exterior at this fabulous location is matched by the nautical interior of this homegrown concept by Piero Giglio (ex-Il Borro and Alici) and Sunset Hospitality Group with a strong nod towards Southern Italy in both style and food. The large terrace is another wonderful sundowner spot and the floor-to-ceiling windows are opened completely to give a classic al fresco, Mediterranean vibe.
Valet parking at the door is a welcome treat and even better is the welcome from the front desk. Just a single person emanating charm and happiness; thank you! In a similar way that Siddharta Lounge is unveiled by the opening of a lift door, L’Amo is visibly stunning and noticeably well-staffed. The fish market display is classy, with the origins of the produce highlighted. Obviously, the Southern Italy vibe prefaces expensive, Mediterranean seafood with a missed opportunity for a more sustainable nod to Middle Eastern produce.
A high-quality Negroni with big, clear ice; proper, heavy glassware; and finished off with a fine sliver of orange zest, hint at a bar team that knows their drinks. The wine list is varied and expensive (as expected) and my first choice is not available on this occasion. A confident sommelier recommends an alternative that is double in price and not in line with my first choice. We settle on a Rioja Blanco as this is likely to work well with the range of seafood dishes that I expect to devour in the next two hours. The restaurant fills quickly and the atmosphere is just what I love; the hubbub of conversation, laughter, and light background music. My dining partner and I discussed dress codes in advance and settled on ‘casual-terranean’ but with hindsight, it is absolutely a place to don your smartest jacket or best dress to blend in with the affluent, sartorial crowd.
Service at L’Amo is the most enjoyable part of the evening. The staff engage easily with us and the knowledge of the food and ethos of the restaurant is markedly good. Watching the team fillet cooked fish, silver-serve dishes, and elegantly pour magnums of Laurent Perrier (not for us sadly!) is somewhat enchanting and rare in the Dubai restaurant scene. Our Ukrainian waitress is simply brilliant and guides us through the comprehensive menu. Having visited the fish counter, we have little choice but to sample the delicate langoustines and the alluring sea urchins from Spain. The sea urchins might well be the most satisfying sea-tasting dish of all time.
Looking back, I would select more of the fish counter produce, but we had decided to order two on-menu seafood plates; hot and cold. Le tre tartare – a Sicilian red prawn, tuna, and seabass tartare trio – looks simple and delivers pleasant flavour with the tuna as a standout component. The texture of the seabass is slightly mushy, and as a whole combination is a touch too soft. The frittura di mazzancolle is more interesting and reminds me of eating freshly-caught fish served in buckets along the Mediterranean coast. For a dish like this, including fried prawns, langoustines, calamari and crab, the Greek-style lemon tarama sauce works well, but the overall dish could be heightened further with a second sauce as a point of difference.
Moving onto the mains, we are further enthralled by the joviality of L’Amo and we may well be looking out over the Ionian Sea as we enjoy the atmosphere and views. Spaghettone cacio e pepe e ricci di mare is a famously complex dish of spaghetti (the famous Mancini brand), sea urchin, pecorino cheese and black pepper. A light touch graces the dish and it’s not as rich or filling as one fears. This is simple cooking done well and the plate is all the better for it. Followed by branzino in guazzetto, another gentle cuddle of a dish containing lightly cooked seabass, chilli, hot pimento, and cherry tomatoes. While I appreciate the delicate nature of the produce, the promise of chilli and hot pimento leaves me wanting something more feverish and intense. The most intensely flavoursome dish of the night is our broccoletti, served on the side. One cannot fault the quality of the cooking or the ingredients and perhaps they are best left as they are. Executive chef Lorenzo Buccarini has a confident hand on his dishes and maybe his menu also contains something fiercer to really excite the taste buds.
I love a pun in my food so the ti…amo…su jumps out of the page at me for desserts. A pretty tower of cream and coffee is another genteel coercion of a dish and an appropriately light end to a potentially heavy meal. Is it the best tiramisu I have ever had? No, but it is well-executed and enjoyable. My partner devours his baba tradizionale, a light cake doused in syrup and topped with cream. A pleasant ending to a tender meal.
My dining partner requests a Fernet-Branca and the waitress has the confidence and training to admit that she has not heard of this digestif but will consult with a colleague. She heads to the bar and returns with a member of the her team who confirms the order. Not only that, the Fernet is presented in the appropriate tall glass; something we have not seen often in Dubai bars. These little touches make such a difference to how one feels when going out for dinner – and prompt our conversation on when to return with our wives.
The price point of AED430 per person without alcohol is in that strange abyss of Dubai pricing; seemingly expensive for what we actually ate but reassuringly appropriate for the style and grandeur of the restaurant. Having said that, we cannot wait to wear our best jackets and grab one of the larger terrace tables for a truly decadent, flamboyant, and enjoyable night with friends.
This brings me back to the FooDiva rating; a more than respectable 3.5 knives out of 5. Top-class service, beautiful location, striking interior, and food handled and prepared with the love and care that the ingredients demand. How many dishes will I remember in six months’ time? Not as many as the overall feeling that L’Amo gives me. The service is Michelin-esque (ironic given the guide refrains from directly rating service), and this is what makes me want to return, over the food.
What about you? Is the food everything to you, or do you still want those high-level hospitality touches that the best restaurants bring with consummate ease?
Who is guest reviewer Matt? A married man with an obsession for French wine and food, he loves nothing more than trying new restaurants and dishes with his wife and friends. Currently approaching dining at 100 Michelin star restaurants, his quest for great food knows no boundaries. His favourite chefs are Chris McClurg, Reif Othman and Tommy Banks. You can follow him on Instagram @finediningmatt
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