Can Jun’s make fusion work?
I am always so relieved, and frankly, ecstatic, when I manage to eat my way through a whole meal and restaurant review, without an inch of recognition. Alongside, paying the bill in full, and with no dishes sent to the table complimentary. And that’s even with the chef patron and the GM, who follow me on Instagram, doing the rounds of tables, ours included.
The dinner review a couple of weekends ago is new Dubai restaurant opening, Jun’s. A chef-led independent concept by Chinese-Canadian Kelvin Cheung, whose career has spanned the US and India. His business partner is Indian entrepreneur, Neha Anand. Surprisingly, unlike its neighbours, Jun’s is a licensed restaurant, on the main boulevard in Downtown Dubai – thanks to landlord, Vida Residences. With complimentary valet parking I should add. Jun’s would benefit from promoting the alcohol component, which is currently available indoors only. Not that you would want to dine al fresco in this weather. A licence is expected for a secluded section of the patio terrace, which has Burj Khalifa views.
The name, in case you’re wondering, is a nod to Kelvin and Neha’s sons – Jun Jun Wai and Arjun. The cuisine claimed is “Asian-North-American”, paying homage to Kelvin’s heritage. That’s quite a melange of cultures, and for want of an overused word, but highly relevant in this case – fusion. On paper, a well-engineered menu with intriguing ingredient and flavour combinations.
The compressed watermelon tartare from the cold littles section boasts a delicate smokey flavour. A pretty presentation with the tartare balancing precariously on crisp nori crackers atop a charred avocado half, and swimming in aqua de chile, a ceviche-like marinade-cum-dressing. In a welcome touch, additional nori crackers are presented on the side for scooping.
A couple of dishes from the hot littles selection. A twist on the Indian fried dough street food snack of chaat combining tempura za’atar with tamarind, yoghurt, whipped avocado and masala spices. Sweet, sour, spice, umami and textural heaven in a bowl. The spiciest dish of the night is the FIERY Szechuan-inspired chilli chicken, which, fortunately, uses the more flavoursome thigh meat. Chicken breast, typically bland, should be banned, in my opinion.
Arriving at the same time as the chicken, however from the third grills section, are koobideh (Iranian inspired I expect) meets Japanese tsukune. Let’s just call them meatballs, made with a mix of lamb loin and Wagyu beef, and served with a kimchi jam. With my mouth still on fire, any flavours are overpowered, sadly. Easily rectified by serving the chilli chicken dish on its own. I am expecting a side dish of al dente wok-fried greens (asparagus, Brussel sprouts and broccolini) to arrive with the meatballs – but oddly it comes next with our second grilled item. The oysters. So refreshing to see cooked oysters on a Dubai restaurant menu. I clearly didn’t eat enough in Australia. These are French no 3s (Pacific species). A novel and enjoyable combo of black bean jam, jalapenos and mung bean noodles.
Six dishes later, we’re full. However, for review purposes, we order the “strawberry Basque cheesecake”, which is not strawberry flavoured at all – simply accompanied by an assortment of berries, one of which is strawberry, and a compote. The cheesecake is well executed like the original San Sebastian gem, but expectations should be managed, and the descriptor changed. When I post some stories the following day, Kelvin is quick to take the feedback on board, and rectify the menu descriptor. Bravo.
Whilst Kelvin is a talented chef, the talent does not extend to the sommelier, or perhaps the lack of a sommelier, given the dismal selection of wines. I am all for compact menus, wine lists included – but a limited range should at least be drinkable without any Ribena-tasting Cab Savs. The cocktail list is more inspiring, even though classics are not represented. That’s quickly remedied with our personable waiter volunteering for my tipple of choice to be mixed. The dirty martini turns out well.
Service is efficient and engaging, however a little too swift with the removal of plates, and my bug bearer of an attempt to hoist away my drink before I have finished – all evident in a fast 180-minute dinner turn around. With only a few diners in a sprawling 150-cover restaurant on a Saturday evening, there’s absolutely no need to turn the tables round so quickly.
The warm, inviting décor is impressive and screams expensive, from floor-to-ceiling windows and striking three-dimensional ceiling installations to a magnificent marble bar, and a chef’s table that I have my eye on, overlooking the open kitchen.
A price point of AED250 per person for three courses each without alcohol is very reasonable for a premium licensed restaurant, and should be applauded.
Fusion often gets a bad rap, but in Jun’s case, thanks to a highly experienced chef who has worked across many cuisines and cultures, this hybrid menu of two continents – Asia and North America, plus more in fact – shows flavour mastery and cooking technique, with dish after dish that fascinates and compels. Bonus points for the eye-catching crockery and presentation.
150 covers is a mammoth restaurant to fill, in particular for a destination that is not widely recognised for licensed premises. Jun’s currently lacks custom that will give it some much-needed atmosphere with a buzzing vibe. Once Dubai’s winter season kicks in and word gets out, I would like to see Jun’s get busier. I, for one, look forward to returning once Kelvin launches the chef’s table, paired with, I hope, a more thoughtful wine list. I guess my cover will be blown. Here’s to a 3.5 out of 5 FooDiva knife rating.
Any more independent licensed restaurants in Downtown Dubai that you rate highly?
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
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