Bungalo34: a restaurant, not a beach club
When Natasha Sideris, the founder and CEO of The Tashas Group, first mentioned that she was developing a new homegrown, independent restaurant in Dubai, Bungalo34, at Nikki Beach Resort, she underplayed it so much, that I dismissed it. However, after the opening and thanks to some online research – a combination of an intriguing Mediterranean menu with a beachside setting and glorious weather compelled me to visit.
Despite booking under a pseudonym, once the hostess escorts us through to the restaurant, I walk straight into a frantic Tasha, as she’s affectionately known. Frantic, because the restaurant is busy, on a Sunday, for a 5.30pm sundowner and early dinner reservation. She is one of Dubai’s few restaurateurs who is extremely hands-on, always on the floor working with her team, cleaning tables included. My cover may be blown, but, at least, we do pay the bill.
Terrace bookings are not guaranteed, and we are asked to have a drink at the bar until the team organises a table outside. The Bellini (Prosecco-based for AED76) is exquisitely presented with a teeny pink macaroon in a seashell. I would have liked a larger flute though. The wine list is comprehensive, balanced, but pricey, reflected with a Provence rose from the Ultimate winery at AED100 a glass. Before we’re even halfway through our aperitif, we are shown to our table.
The bread arrives swiftly. South African Roosterkoek. These are charred, flattened rolls, which I recall fondly from Flamingo Room by Tashas. We eat these piping hot with salted butter melting through.
Bungalo34 is named after Tasha’s favourite room in her Greek hideaway. “Walk with me, laugh with me, dine with me,” is proudly stated on the seafood-forward menu’s back cover. Exactly what I expect of my husband – my preferred restaurant review companion. You won’t find anything mundane with this Mediterranean menu that has been carefully engineered to showcase dishes with a difference and new to the UAE (and perhaps even further afield). For instance, our first starter by the descriptor of crudites, is presented more like a salad, and could convince you to turn veggie. Crisp yellow and green zucchini, carrots and other root vegetables (radish, turnip and kohlrabi) are shaved and tossed with a delightful horseradish and chive crème fraiche dressing, with crumbled feta and candied pistachios for texture. A signature, must-order dish.
Our second starter goes by the name of warm salmon carpaccio. Clever positioning for some Greeks who steer away from eating raw fish 😉 Slivers of ever so lightly seared salmon are topped with horseradish lemon butter, capers, dill and a drizzle of EVO. Served with homemade slivers of Melba-like toast – perfect for spooning the salmon. A novel, well-executed interpretation of a classic dish that I would order time and time again. Both appetisers are generous, decadent portions.
For our first main course, I order a starter designed for sharing. The Iliya trio, with fresh fish from the seafood display at the entrance. A kilo of seabass served three ways. Carpaccio, with a sprightly mandarin dressing. The crudo, in a similar diced style to ceviche, with chopped grapes. And the tartare, with an umami-laden tonnato dip. More chef skills are required for this dish, than for a simple grilled seabass.
Our second main course, another large portion, is a twist on tagliata di manzo with gently seared tuna slices replacing the beef. Rocket leaves are an integral accompaniment, but it’s the red pepper relish, salsa verde and anchovy crumb that differentiate and elevate this dish.
Even though we purposely stick to seafood, I fear we have over-ordered, and cannot stomach dessert, despite the inviting selection. The team then proceeds to send across a pineapple cheesecake on the house. This is no ordinary cheesecake with a rare-for-Dubai flavour profile. Diced pineapple in the cream cheese gives a welcome texture, whilst the tartness of a caramelised, poached pineapple topping offsets the sweetness. Just one bite with a spoonful of the coconut ice cream accompaniment, and this dessert could be renamed Pina Colada cheesecake.
I have always admired Tasha’s obsessive attention to detail and her high regard for aesthetics, evident in all her concepts including a FooDiva favourite – Avli. Bungalo34 is no exception. The retro 1960s riviera-style décor with pops of cheery orange weaved throughout the interior, from the bar, to the dining room, to the terrace. The modern, eye-catching paintings gracing the walls from XVA Gallery. The pyjama-style shirt and short uniforms matching the soft furnishings. The striking seafood-themed tableware. The fish-shaped napkin rings. Her accessories and giftware concept, The Collective, at the entrance is a shopper’s paradise.
Ambience is achieved with a buzzing vibe and a brilliant pop playlist that guests can download on Spotify thanks to a QR code card presented with the bill. The sound level is toned down as we move from afternoon to evening. There’s some fun people-watching from all walks of life, yet it’s also unpretentious and relaxing. Keep in mind that once our summer kicks in, the venue will lose its seafront appeal, with an indoor-only concept. Bungalo34 is very much a restaurant with a strong focus on food that welcomes families – not a noisy beach club that happens to serve food.
The front-of-house management is on point, from the friendly staff with zero-attitude, to the menu knowledge, and the efficient flow of service. Even the hostesses at the door are refreshingly welcoming, and that’s before I am recognised.
The sole disappointment of our dining experience is the hefty price point for what should be a casual licensed concept. When calculating the price per person, to get a fair average, I total the cheapest and the most expensive dishes across starters, mains and desserts – and divide by two. At Bungalo34, AED450 per person, will get you three courses, without alcohol. Given the ample portions, one can definitely order less, or opt for the more wallet-friendly dishes – and the meal becomes much more affordable. All other dining parameters – food, service, interior, atmosphere, location – are top notch, with the price point the only hindrance. So unless you would prefer breakfast (open all day from 9am), if you’re keen to go all out on the menu – lunch or dinner at Bungalo34 becomes a special occasion treat.
Price aside, Tasha should be proud of her new baby. Perhaps underplaying has helped manage guest expectations. Bravo. Here’s to a four out of five FooDiva knife rating.
Any other beach-fronted restaurants in Dubai that manage to prioritise the food?
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
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