Culinary travel guide to South Africa: Cape Town and the Winelands

I recently returned to South Africa after my first visit 17 long years ago. A trip postponed by a year thanks to Omicron border closures. Thankfully, despite having booked non-refundable hotels, Last Word, a teeny boutique brand with abodes in Cape Town’s Constantia, and Franschhoek, was kind enough to reschedule our reservation.

A heads up, South Africa is experiencing daily power cuts, otherwise known by the local descriptor of load shedding. Not many businesses, hotels and restaurants included, can afford to run expensive generators, so patience is your ally.

On the upside, dining out is ridiculously cheap even at the finest of world-class restaurants, with an average cheque of AED200 per person, premium wines included. Our most expensive meal of the whole trip (and ironically, the most disappointing) was AED400 per head. Plus wine, in this case.

I started making reservations over three months prior, and, for one restaurant, I only managed to secure a lunch booking, with dinner completely sold out. I much prefer dinner, to allow time for sightseeing during the day. So reserve well in advance and expect to pay deposits.

Here is a FooDiva culinary travel guide rounding up my top restaurant and winery visits in Cape Town and the Winelands – in order of preference. Please feel free to share any additional recommendations.

CAPE TOWN

Restaurants

• Chefs Warehouse Beau: My number one Cape Town restaurant pick. In the affluent suburb of Constantia, famed for its wineries. The stunning setting in the Beau Constantia boutique wine farm offers panoramic views across the vineyard slopes. Arrive before sunset to soak up the vistas before an exemplary dinner. A seasonal, produce-driven set menu, with a choice of two for each of the four courses.

• Fyn: Despite booking three months ahead, I could only bag a lunch booking at this restaurant ranked number 37 on the World’s 50 Best list (and number one in Africa), which does have its benefits for the stream of natural light. Perched on the fifth floor of a converted silk factory, with views of Lion’s Head and Table Mountain. I always try to book the kitchen counter, for a glimpse of the chefs in action. In Fyn’s case, the pastry team. Japanese culinary technique using South African and Far-Eastern produce. Tasting menu, of course.

• Bistro Sixteen82: Another Constantia gem, this tapas-style bistro is named after the year the Steenberg wine farm, its home, was established. Plates are teeny so at least three to four dishes per person are recommended. Fresh west coast oysters, and the crackling-topped pork belly are must-orders.

• Harbour House: This classic seafood restaurant sits in the charming fishing village of Kalk Bay, a suburb of greater Cape Town. The beauty is the harbourside location with almost 360 degree views. I would stick to ordering shellfish, which is better executed than the fish fillet selection on the menu. Combine with visits to the Cape of Good Hope and Boulders Penguin Colony.

Market-style experiences

• Cape Point Vineyards: Another dreamy vineyard setting, this time overlooking a lake, and the Atlantic. A food stall market every Thursday from 4.30 to 8.30pm encapsulates sunset. Grab your grub of choice (we indulged in toasties and pork ribs), and vino – and lounge on the lawn soaking up the breathtaking views. Arrive early to avoid the food queues.

• Orangezicht Food Market: Food stalls, groceries, and crafts – all under one thatched roof. If you’re after foodie gifts to bring back home, one vendor vacuum packs organic biltong. A short stroll from the V&A Waterfront‘s touristic centre.

Afternoon tea & a winery

• Mount Nelson: This afternoon tea experience at the affectionately known ‘Nellie’, along with The Peninsula Hong Kong, are my two all-time favourite high teas in the world. Unlimited servings of any dish makes this a meal in itself. Go for the 3pm slot and skip both lunch and dinner. This rose-coloured grande dame hotel, managed by Belmond, offers a serene oasis in the gorgeous garden, whilst feasting on freshly baked, crumbly scones with proper clotted cream. I eat mine the Devonshire way, cream first, then the jam topping – in a similar way that one would butter toast first 😉

• Klein Constantia Winery: We left the bulk of the wineries for our Franschhoek stay, but we did book a tasting at Klein Constantia given the close proximity to our hotel. Its world-famous Vin de Constance sweet wine boasts a heritage dating back to the 18^th century. I also enjoyed the zero dosage Cap Classique Blanc de Blancs. A tour of the vineyards showed off plots with nine grape varieties including the Muscat de Frontignan for Vin de Constance.

FRANSCHHOEK

Restaurants

• Babel at Babylonstoren: THE highlight of our whole South African adventure. A travesty if you don’t visit Babylonstoren with lunch at Babel in the Franschhoek wine valley. This is more than a vineyard. A Cape Dutch working farm with a maze of vegetable patches, grazing animals, and cackling birds. Farm shops. Spa boutique. Boutique hotel. Wine tasting, of course. Restaurants, of which Babel is a farm-to-fork triumph of locally sourced produce. Veggies have never tasted so good. Don’t worry, there’s plenty of grass-fed meat too.

• Chefs Warehouse Maison: Our last supper more than lived up to expectations, like its Constantia sibling. A more casual, sharing-style experience with eight small plates from a set menu. The restaurant is a pretty Cape Dutch mansion, set in, you guessed it, a wine estate.

• The French Connection: A quaint French bistro for something spontaneous that is smack bang on Franschhoek village’s high street.

• La Petite Colombe: The priciest and most disappointing meal of our visit. A 13-course tasting menu for just under AED400 per person. The highlight? The stunner of a setting in the vineyards of Leeu Estates; our round alcove window table; and the inventive starters. In contrast, the main courses were fussy and bland. Slow service, which, in all fairness, our table manager recognised – however, also robotic.

Cafes and pubs

• Terbodore Café: For casual brekkie and lunch, as well as hand-roasted coffee. On Franschhoek’s main high street.

• Tuk Tuk: For a respite from fancy food, this pub, also on the main street serves up top pub grub – tacos, margaritas and craft beer included.

WINERIES…IN THE WINELANDS

Franschhoek is the wine ‘capital’ of South Africa with wineries stretching for miles – however both the neighbouring towns of Stellenbosch and Somerset West also house many wine estates. Please keep in mind, with my selection below, I hand-picked wineries renowned mostly for reds and Cap Classique, as my head cannot tolerate still white wines.

• Wine tram/ bus: A good way to kick off wine tasting and get your bearings is with the hop-on hop-off, wine tram-cum-bus in Franschhoek. This may sound rather gimmicky, but, with the choice of ten different routes, the experience stops at some excellent wineries. I would recommend the grey line which takes in Haute Cabriere (for Cap Classique) and Chamonix (Bordeaux-style).

• Paserene, Franschhoek: A young boutique winery with wonderful reds and a rose, including the Union 2019 vintage, a 100% Syrah with bold yet supple tannins.

• La Motte, Franschhoek: Recognised for Shiraz blends including the limited-edition flagship Hanneli 2017, the last vintage produced. Note: the restaurant was closed for refurb, so no bites, other than bread, were available as an accompaniment.

• Boschendal, Franschhoek: The wines are commercial, but the breathtaking setting lined with glorious oak trees makes this postcard-perfect winery well worth a visit. For a picnic or a deli lunch. All in the shadow of the oak trees of course.

• Taaibosch & Pink Valley wineries, Somerset West: By appointment only (thanks to Marc Afonso at MMI for organising). These two French-owned wineries will soon retail their wines in Dubai, including a stellar Bordeaux blend, and a Provence-style rose. Minimal intervention, organic farming.

• Waterkloof: Another appointment-only winery in Somerset West, with a triumphant hill-top setting. Organic-certified and practicing biodynamic.

GENERAL HOUSEKEEPING

• We visited over the first ten days in January, the start of South Africa’s summer season – yet whilst the days were generally warm, the temperatures dropped substantially in the evenings, with many a biting and fierce wind. Check the weather forecast and pack accordingly.

• For daytime rides, Uber’s premium service is generally reliable – however, not so much in the evenings, when a pre-booked hotel car is advisable.

A bientôt.

FooDiva. x