How does the new Okku compare to the original?
The original Okku that opened in 2009 became Dubai’s first independent, homegrown, licensed restaurant concept. Remember the wild disco brunch and Sunday L.O.V.E. promo? Those heady, old-school times are forever ingrained in my memory. Five years after closing, the modern Japanese trendsetter has popped up in a new location. Palm Jumeirah at the Marriott.
This review was shared first with my Substack subscribers, as are all reviews. Feel free to subscribe HERE, should you wish.
The new Okku is grander. Of course it is. A dedicated entrance leads us through a corridor lined with a sake barrel light show making for that mandatory Instagram capture. But the dining room with its dark, sultry décor and an exposed ceiling remains, as does the trademark ‘aquarium’. However, the jelly fish are reincarnated as mock creatures.
195 covers, with social distancing-like spacing. There’s no chance of anyone overhearing conversations here. In a refreshing move, the hostess lets us choose our own table (admittedly for an early Sunday dinner reservation), so we sit alongside the sushi counter and robata grill.
Typically, plush licensed Japanese restaurants in Dubai are expensive, and there’s certainly some ludicrously high ticketed items on Okku’s mammoth menu – however, the majority of dishes are well priced. The seven plates we order, all generous portions, range from AED39 to AED149, including the black cod and other signature dishes. Expect an average price per head, based on three dishes each, of AED350.
We order some shishito peppers to nibble on whilst perusing the menu. Think padron – but slender, shrivelled, and slightly sweeter.
Okku’s famous crispy duck salad is back on the new menu – and a massive portion that does not scrimp on the star protein ingredient. An assortment of salad leaves, radishes, cabbage, leeks, daikon and pomegranate in a hoisin and amazu rice vinegar dressing. Sweet. Sour. Tangy. Demolished.
Tomato tartare with a yuzu miso atop addictively sticky, dense crisped rice cakes is both a novel topping and an inventive change from tuna, the preferred ingredient on similar dishes across Dubai – and, incidentally, also on the Okku menu.
A tuna carpaccio seals a mound of pan-seared foie gras slivers with a sweet soy dressing, alongside micro herbs, coriander and crisped garlic for texture. Tuna and foie gras might be my new favourite protein combo.
Potato crisp ‘tacos’ are filled with Wagyu tartare dressed in sesame, soy and chives. Delicate. Delightful. Like the rice cakes, an even number of four morsels are served eliminating any squabbles over sharing. The latter three dishes, picture above, are in the ‘small plates’ section – but there’s nothing small about the decent portions.
Onto our two main courses. First up, the dish that chef Nobu himself invented and every Japanese restaurant has copied. Black cod. At Okku, the marination is yuzu miso. A mere touch of my chopsticks is all that is required for the fish to flake. Gently seared so that it’s not overcooked. A smear of plum miso acts as a refreshing palate cleanser.
For a change from Japanese fare, I opt for the Korean bibimbap – a veggie aka ‘yasai’ version. Rice aside obviously, there’s spinach, carrots, courgettes and a gorgeous runny fried egg. A sesame-chilli pesto is served on the side which we are encouraged to stir through. East-Asian comfort food at its best.
Our waiter Pratap’s engagement and expertise throughout our dinner is so endearing, I want to hug him. Hospitality comes naturally to him. He even trots off to the valet at the end of our meal to have our car brought to the door. The bartender pops across to ascertain my flavour preferences and concoct a sugar-syrup-free mocktail. The wine list mirrors the à la carte with some decently priced wines (and hefty ones) which is unusual for a Palm Jumeirah restaurant with CCD’s 30 per cent mark-up.
There’s a trio of pet peeves though with Okku’s SOPs (standard operating procedures) – and something many Dubai restaurants are guilty of. I personally don’t require the whole menu explained. I’ve already over-analysed and practically decided on my order from home. Arduous and a waste of time. Perhaps ask guests whether they would like a rendition of the menu. Another time waster is the staff’s repetition of our order. And, lastly, I don’t need to be upsold edamame as soon as we are seated – because, that’s one way of making sure I don’t order it.
I expect Okku to be quiet on a Sunday evening, as it is with only a dozen or so tables occupied. I hear bookings are required for weekends though. There’s no disco brunch with Okku only open for dinner service. But there is a DJ with a low-key, ambient playlist that won’t ruin conversation.
The food is flawless from flavour and technique, to quality of ingredients and presentation. By choosing wisely, it’s easy to eat affordably. I am delighted Okku is back, and in my neck of the woods too, so I hope, as word gets out, the restaurant fills up. You might not find me partying anymore, but I’ll definitely return for some serious dining. Here’s to a high four out of five FooDiva knife rating.
What’s your favourite OG Okku memory?
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
For more on FooDiva – see here.
No comments yet